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Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore in early afternoon to main dock. Took a long uphill walk to Mt Pleasant. Nice view down into the main harbor on the way: pic (red arrow points to Magnolia). Views from top were nice but don't photograph well; Mustique and other islands are just hazy green/brown blobs. Back down into town, bought bananas, back to boat. Tired.
Grapefruit (lousy) and salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner.
Added water to the batteries; they took a lot.
Anchor light I hang in the cockpit has stopped working. Can't see why; it's a sealed LED unit, the power plug has an LED that is lit, all connections look good. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore in midafternoon, to fishing dock, and did some yoga.
Messed with the LED anchor light, didn't find anything wrong, started yanking at the electrical wires to take the connections apart, and one snapped off. Repaired the connection, plugged it in, works.
Grapefruit and spaghetti and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore in late afternoon to market dock. Disposed of a bag of garbage. Did some yoga. Did shopping: hotdogs, cheese, pasta, soda.
Salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore in late afternoon, getting rained on a little, to fishing dock, and did some yoga. Walked into town and ran into Daniel and Brenda from "Nanook II"; had nice chat, found they've been anchored realtively close to me for 3 days, we hope to play dominoes on Sunday. Did some shopping: onions, soda, tomatoes, bananas, cucumber.
Chili and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Opened up the Wi-Fi POE, and the insides are more complicated than I expected: pic. Can't find anything wrong.
Can't get any Wi-Fi, with either adapter and on multiple signals.
Ashore in very late afternoon, to fishing dock, and did some yoga, then walked up to Fort Hamilton. On the way back to the boat, stopped by "Nanook II" and chatted with them, and set a time and place for dominoes tomorrow.
Salad and leftover chili and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore at noon to "Whaleboner" bar, which turned out to be closed for the day. Played dominoes at an outside table with Daniel and Brenda from "Nanook II", Robin from "Smart Move", and Marie. Had a nice time.
Wi-Fi mostly not working all day.
Salad and hotdog-onion-mushroom-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Interesting boat: pic.
Ashore in late morning to market dock, stopping by "Nanook II" to chat for a minute. Disposed of a bag of garbage. Did some yoga. Went for a walk up above town and down past the stadium. Did some shopping.
At 5:30, into the dinghy and across the harbor to "Smart Move". Nice evening with Barry and Robin from "Smart Move", Gary and Marie from "Mai Tai", and Daniel and Brenda from "Nanook II". Had a couple of beers, some fresh homemade chocolate-chip cookies, a little chips and dip. Left a can of nuts that I brought. Very nice conversation, pleasant, plenty of laughs. Back to my boat around 8.
Leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Reportedly there was a big earthquake near Barbados (not far from here) around 3:30 AM this morning.
My paid Wi-Fi worked perfectly for 30 minutes or so, then suddenly it's screwed up again. Frustrating. A DNS problem, I think. 5 minutes later, working again. Worked fine for 30 minutes, then got extremely slow.
Ashore in late afternoon, to fishing dock, and did some yoga, then walked up to Fort Hamilton. On the way back to the boat, stopped by "Nanook II" and chatted with them, and set a time and place for dominoes tomorrow. They told me a boat got robbed here last night: people from a charter catamaran went ashore for dinner and left the boat unlocked, and someone stole some valuable things.
Salad and spaghetti and a rum-and-Coke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Grey, rainy, very windy morning. Later sunny and very windy.
Ashore at 1 to "Whaleboner" bar to play dominoes (a bit like this). Ten people at two tables: me, Christine from "Duo", Dan and Brenda from "Nanook II", Peter and Ann from "Spice of Life", Robin from "Smart Move", Marie, Bob and Lin. Lots of fun, lots of laughs. I came in second to Dan, by 6 points. Bob said the boat-robbed story is different than was reported over the radio: a couple was sitting aboard their catamaran in the cockpit in the evening, when someone snuck in through a forward hatch and stole stuff without them noticing.
Rain set in minutes after we finished the dominoes. It stopped for a while, and I gave Christine a lift down to the beach near her boat, then went up to the market dock. Did some yoga, chatted with a guy for a while, then bought a few groceries. Had to wait out rain for 15 minutes or so, then back to the boat.
Salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-Coke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Paid Wi-Fi working pretty well today.
Huge squall with strong wind and horizontal rain at 1. Then sunny.
Ashore in early afternoon, to fishing dock, and did some yoga. Chatted with a local guy, who then asked me if I wanted to donate to sponsor a child for something; there seem to be a lot of donation things going here, trying to get money from the visitors. Walked into town. To govt office to renew my visa for one more month: EC$25 (about US$10), and I have to go back to pick up my passport tomorrow morning. Stopped at supermarket and various stands, and bought hotdogs, cheese, bread, grapefruit, cabbage, tomatoes, bananas. On way back, stopped in a store and bought sausage.
Grey and lots of rain at 3:40, but not much wind.
Grapefruit and chili and a rum-and-Coke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore in midmorning, to the market dock. To the govt building, had to wait 10 minutes, got my passport back, stamped properly. Wanted to ask a couple of questions, but the officer didn't seem to be the brightest, and there was a line behind me.
Walked out of town and up to the top of the hill looking down on Friendship Bay. Sat and read a few pages of my book, walked back. Good exercise.
Skype-called Mom and chatted with her.
Grapefruit and leftover chili and a rum-and-Coke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Sunny and windy day. Feeling a bit headachey.
Ashore in early afternoon to the fishing dock. Did some yoga, walked into town and back.
Big powerboat came in, anchored, re-anchored, did it again several more times over next couple of hours: pic.
Hotdog-onion-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-Coke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore at 1 to "Whaleboner" bar to play dominoes. Place wasn't open, but when they saw all of us, they opened up, and by the time we finished, the place was hopping. Nine players at two tables: me, Dan and Brenda from "Nanook II", Peter and Ann from "Spice of Life", Robin from "Smart Move", Marie, Bob and Lin. Another group of five or so people we didn't know at another table, playing too. Lots of fun, lots of laughs. I came in third overall. Right at the end, some maybe-a-bit-drunk local guitar-player came in and tried to entertain the whole place with some music and lots of boisterous we're-having-a-great-time shouting; annoying.
Went ashore at the market dock, disposed of 2 bags of garbage, did some yoga.
Salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Did a bucket of laundry.
Ashore in late afternoon to the market dock. Disposed of a bag of garbage. Bought 2 gallons of gasoline for EC$28. Did some yoga. Walked down to the marine store to find out about propane refill. Always liked the picture on this shack: pic. Back to boat about 5 minutes ahead of rain.
Salad and spaghetti and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Nice sausage from that store; yum. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore in midafternoon, to fishing dock. Did yoga, then walked up to Fort Hamilton at NW corner of the harbor, above my boat.
Trying to get up a dominoes game for tomorrow, but "Nanook II" has left, and "Spice of Life" is leaving tomorrow.
Salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Paid Wi-Fi ran out around 10 AM; thought I had until tomorrow morning.
Ashore in midafternoon to the market dock, a wet ride into strong wind with a S component. Disposed of a bag of garbage. Did some yoga. Went for a walk up above town and down past the stadium. Bought grapefruit, tomatoes, cheese, onions, soda, bananas.
Sailing cruise-ship came in around 4:30: pic.
Banana and grapefruit and chili and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Big fuel-slick around my boat in early afternoon, but as far as I can tell it's not coming from me. I'm at the downwind end of the harbor; could have come from anywhere upwind.
Ashore in midafternoon, to fishing dock. Did yoga, then walked up to small grocery store and bought another 3 pounds of that sausage. I really like it, although it's almost a little too spicy, and won't find anything like it again until I get back to Grenada.
Found a leak on the dinghy's bow tube and put a patch on it.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover chili and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore in early afternoon, to market dock. Wasn't until I got ashore that I noticed the cruise ship, anchored outside the harbor and around a hill from my boat.
Walked up the hill above town, and then up more and around into the area called "Cinnamon Garden". Lots of exercise. Followed sign that said "Top Level". Nice little neighborhood with a view down into the mouth of the harbor. Did a loop around the neighborhood and out, then more uphill as I went more along the spine of the island. Went up a very steep stretch of road to the harbor side, but houses are blocking any view. Road along the spine turns into a rutted track through woods, so I stopped at that point. Came back down and down, with a view of the windward side of the island, then across above town and down past the stadium. Lots of kids in the stands, but no events happening on the field at the moment. Various pictures taken along the way: pics.
Down into town. Bought bread and toothpaste. Back out to the boat. My legs are tired.
Salad and sausage-onion-mushroom-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Very strong wind blasting through around 2.
Ashore in midafternoon, to fishing dock. Did some yoga.
Salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Frequent light rain, all night long. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Grey and windy and frequent light rain. Finally got some sunshine starting around 11.
Ashore in early evening, to market dock. Did some yoga. Took a short walk through town.
Salad and spaghetti and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Lots of boats leaving this morning; conditions are lighter, seas lower, than they've been in a while.
Online, booked my flights from Philly to Barcelona; I'll be spending about 2 months in Barcelona again this year, in May and June. Got the same ticket price as last year, but now both directions are nonstops.
Hoisted the jib, using the eye on the sail fabric instead of the eye on the wire in the luff. I need to get the fabric to slide up the remaining 6 inches or so on the wire, and haven't been able to do it on deck. So I hosted the sail and left it up there for a while, hoping the pull on the wire at the bottom and the sail fabric at the top would generate some movement. Brought it down, don't think I gained more than an inch. Lashed a rope on to keep eye of fabric up near eye of wire.
Ashore in late afternoon, to fishing dock. Did some yoga. Took a very short walk.
Salad and leftover spaghetti and buttered bread and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Ashore around 11, to market dock. Did some yoga. To govt building, and paid EC$35 for another month of cruising permit; should have done that when I extended my visa. Bought a trinket at a stand. Usual grapefruit vendor isn't here today. Into grocery store and bought EC$100 of food. To fruit stand and bought EC$15 of fruit and veg. Back to the boat.
Salad and chili and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Headache in the early AM; took an ibuprofen. Took another at 7 AM.
Online, after a fair amount of struggle, booked my flights between Grenada and Philly, in mid-April and early July. A relief to have all the flights booked, Grenada - Philly - Barcelona.
Ashore in midafternoon, to fishing dock. Did some yoga. Stopped at marine store, asked about propane, used book-exchange. Walked behind town and up to hill behind it, and down past the stadium. Saw this van on a street two back from the waterfront: pic. Back to the dock, stopping at various stands but not buying anything. Back to the boat.
Took an ibuprofen before dinner.
Added water to batteries; they took a lot.
Salad and leftover chili for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Still a bit headachey. Took a paracetamol.
Felt tired and achey all day; didn't go ashore. Took another paracetamol in late afternoon.
Sausage-onion-corn-mushroom-cheese-cornbread concoction for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Once again, fully intended to take the propane tank ashore this morning to get it refilled. And once again, untied it and shook it, and seems like there's still a fair amount in there. Lashed it down again.
Ashore at 11, to market dock. Did some yoga. Had a lovely long conversation with an English couple visiting the island; they've stayed a couple of weeks here before, also Barbados, St Lucia, Grenada. Nice conversation about all kinds of things.
Looked for grapefruit but didn't find any. Into grocery store for hotdogs, pasta, eggs, bread. Back to boat.
Salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Grey, slightly rainy morning, then sunny.
Put a new sheave on the jib-furling line, where it comes into the cockpit.
At 12:20, saw something I haven't seen before. Heard some yelling, went on deck to see, and a guy anchored off my starboard aft quarter was yelling to a big charter catamaran that was thinking of anchoring ahead of him. Nothing new about that, and I didn't see why he was concerned; they were well ahead of him. Maybe he was worried they would end up swinging over top of his anchor, and he wants to leave soon ? Anyway, the new thing was that the guy was on the bow with a handheld radio and holding up a wooden placard with a radio channel on it (looked like "8", but maybe it was "68"). Never seen that before. The catamaran immediately veered off and went to the other side of the harbor.
Skype-called Mom and chatted with her, and then the connection dropped suddenly.
Ashore in midafternoon, to market dock. Did some yoga. Walked up the loop above town, then took a side-trip up to "Upper Hope". View down into town/harbor: pic. Houses near top: pic. Jeep at a house: pic. Got a lot of exercise. Down into town, to grocery store, bought chicken. To a stand, bought carrots and grapefruit.
Grapefruit and chicken-onion-rice-carrot-cabbage and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Fairly still night and I felt headachey; didn't sleep well. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Headachey; took an ibuprofen at 6 AM.
Hoisted the mainsail.
Didn't feel like going ashore today, so didn't. Very grey and some rain several times in the afternoon.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover chicken-rice and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Weather forecast seems to be changing frequently; hard to plan. Was supposed to be very light wind today, now says a period of very light wind tomorrow instead. I wanted to hoist the jib and unfurl/furl it a couple of times, maybe raise anchor and move to another spot.
Big sloop "Twilight" anchored in the middle of the harbor: pic. 125 feet long, according to this.
Ashore in midafternoon, to market dock. Did some yoga. Walked up the loop above town and down past the stadium. Hot. Groceries: butter, onions, soda, tomato, bananas, cabbage.
Wi-Fi pretty bad today; frustrating.
Wind lighter in late afternoon. Hoisted the jib. Took a while to get it under control and sorted out.
Salad and spaghetti (but had to use elbow macaroni) and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Trying to decide whether to go down to Canouan today. Online, finally got a weather forecast, says wind 10-11 today. Decided to go tomorrow.
Added water to the batteries, stowed stuff in the engine compartment, strapped down tops on the battery boxes, started charging the starting battery.
Ashore in midafternoon, to fishing dock. Did some yoga. Walked up to Fort Hamilton. Chatted with a local guy.
Out to the boat. The wind, instead of weakening as forecast, has strengthened a little. And the jib has started to unfurl itself about 3/4 of the way up, making a big pouch and flogging badly in the wind. Onto the boat and struggle to bring it down, since the brakes on the halyard winches stick and have to be banged on (I've tried to fix that a number of times). Got the jib down.
Around 4:30, shut off the wind-generator because system voltage was getting too high, and it shut down very roughly, shuddering. Not good.
Salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner.
Very still night; I guess the wind-lull came later than I expected.
Wind started up around 3 AM. And the wind-generator is rumbling as if the front bearing is failing yet again. Sigh. This is becoming an annual thing. Bequia, St Vincent and Grenadines.
On deck, stowing things to leave, and I see a big bird perched on the top of the mainmast. So that's why the deck has been getting splattered the last couple of days. Shook the rigging violently to get rid of the bird, which usually works, but this is a pretty big bird, and it just flaps and stays. Finally I give up.
Engine start at 6:30. A bit of a grinding noise as it idles, which is alarming. Can't see anything spurting or rubbing or wrong. Decide to keep going. Put engine in gear, and lots of rumbling from the cutless bearing; it gets gunked up with barnacles and stuff if I stay somewhere for a while.
Anchor up by 6:40, in light air, which is good because I have to go close to that trimaran on my port bow, and then make sure once I'm free I don't drift into the sloop on my starboard side. I let the light wind ease me back as I stow the anchor. Into gear, more rumbling from the stern tube, but the boat moves okay. Thread my way out.
At 6:50, round up and raise sails. Mainsail is easy, just unfurl it. Jib has to be hoisted, starts flogging a bit because it's partly unfurled, then I unfurl the rest of it. Finally get everything set well, start motor-sailing toward the SW corner of the island. Light wind directly from the stern. A couple of tall-ship types boats coming in as I leave. At 7, I look up, and the bird on the mast is gone. I think the commotion of raising the jib got rid of him.
At 7:35, I round the SW corner of Bequia. A little further, GPS beeps some alarm a couple of times; maybe RADAR at the airport is affecting it ?
At 7:45, engine off and start sailing. Making a little less than 3 knots, I think. Very small swells, but plenty of them. Wind maybe ESE 10-12 knots, seas from E maybe 2-3 feet.
While sailing, I can hear some squeaking and grinding in the cutless bearing. Might need to replace it. Last replaced 5/2006.
Around 9:30, the wind sags for a while. Then strengthens again around 10.
Lots of boats spread around the horizon, and a few going my direction. I lay back in the cockpit for 5 minutes to rest, look up, and out of my blind spot (where the jib is), a fairly big catamaran appears, close and going the other direction. A guy aboard points at me and yells something as we pass about 200 feet apart. Probably saying they're on starboard tack, I'm on port tack, so he has right of way. Okay, my bad for not keeping a better eye out. But I'm doing 3 knots, they're doing 10 knots, plenty of open water here. Easy for them to go around me. Maybe my boat, which is steering itself by sail balance, ticked a bit to starboard and irritated them ?
More and more boats out today; sails everywhere.
Seas bigger as I approach Canouan; a bit rolly. Several boats overtaking me from the Mustique direction as we all converge on the NW corner of the island. And a small freighter or ferry coming the opposite way, passing me about 300 feet away.
Stern tube / cutless bearing not sounding so bad now ?
At 11:50, into shelter of the NW corner of Canouan. Nice to get out of the rolling. But soon the wind is fluky, often from dead astern, sometimes gusting. Low grey clouds passing over. At noon, I start the engine.
The wind goes dead, I think of furling sails, the wind starts blasting. It moderates a bit, I furl the mainsail. Get the jib down without too much ugliness, except every time I spend 30 seconds on the foredeck, the boat turns directly toward shore, and I'm not far off the shore. But the jib-furling just isn't working any more; parts of the sail are rotating around the wire, parts aren't, it's a mess.
Past a couple of anchored megayachts; the bigger, blue one is "Seadream Yacht Club".
Into the anchorage, with a sailboat motoring up my stern and threatening to pass me, but then they exercise a little patience and ease off. Up to my usual spot at the N end, anchor down by 12:40 at Charlestown Bay, Canouan, St Vincent and Grenadines.
So, about 21 NM in 6 hours, average 3.5 knots. And pics.
As usual, no free Wi-Fi here, not even SVG govt Wi-Fi.
Lots of grey clouds coming over, frequent very light rainsprinkles. Wish it would rainand get it over with, so I can open up the boat. It's hot from running the engine.
While lashing the mainsail, I notice that bird got a lot of droppings on my solar panels, which may explain why I wasn't getting a lot of power from them as I sailed. I checked them for exactly that yesterday; the bird must have gotten them last night. Up onto the pilothouse roof and clean them off.
At 2:45, wind is howling through from the N, and my anchor is dragging. I'm starting to swing over a mooring ball behind me. Then plenty of rain, horizontal and very small drops.
Rain stopped, wind eased a bit. Started engine at 3:15, raised anchor and moved forward, done by 3:30.
Leftover chicken-rice and tuna-salad sandwiches and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Camera battery seems totally drained, and camera behaving strangely. Got the pictures out of it and started charging the battery.
Feeling tired; went to bed very early.
Lots of gusty wind during the night; I'm in a bit of a wind-funnel here, and the wind outside is supposed to be up to 18-19 knots or so. Wind-generator sounding pretty bad at times. Charlestown Bay, Canouan, St Vincent and Grenadines.
In midafternoon, launched the dinghy and pumped up the tubes. Went down the anchorage to the Moorings dock. Nice chat there with Tony from a blue-hulled sloop. Ashore, the place is hot and quiet and almost deserted. Went to the veranda of the dive shop and did some yoga (pic). Camera has lost all its settings; have to figure them out again.
Walked out to the main road and headed SW. Stopped in 3 or 4 shops and markets, bought bread and tomatoes and spaghetti. No bananas of the kind I want. Down to The Mangroves restaurant (saw model boat: pic) and back. Hot. Stopped in the Tamarind hotel and used the book-exchange; traded 2 books. Back to the boat. (Tony had referred to his boat as the blue-hulled racing boat. I see what he meant: about 50-foot sloop with three-spreader mast with a bend to it. Probably a fast boat.)
Still no free Wi-Fi here.
Salad and chili and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Charlestown Bay, Canouan, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Listened to Grenada cruiser's net to get the weather forecast; forgot to do that yesterday.
After lunch, ashore to the Moorings dock. Did some yoga, then set off to walk the loop around the middle of the island. Made a bit of a wrong turn at the start, and went around the opposite direction I intended. Hot, and it starts off with a tough uphill slog. Levels off a bit, somewhat, and I walk along the anchorage. Have to go pretty far before there's any decent view of the anchorage. Pics.
Get to the N end, which is occupied by a guarded and gated resort (pics). Turns out that both of my maps, and a local lady here who I asked, are a bit wrong; the road dead-ends and I don't see a way to "loop" without getting into the resort and maybe climbing a hill-trail out of it. Nice views from a high roundabout at the end of the public road. Hot slog back to town. The goats are smarter than me, they shelter on the shady side of the church in the midday heat: pic.
Tired and headachey. Laid down for a while. Later, took a paracetamol.
In late afternoon, went snorkeling under the boat and scraped hull and prop a bit. Nice to be in the water.
Leftover chili and bread-and-butter for dinner.
Tired; to bed early.
Very loud music from the far, downwind, town end of the harbor all night long. It was fairly low, and only bass, where I was, and didn't bother me. Started as two competing sources, noticed one still going at 1:45 AM, all quiet at 4 AM. You couldn't pay me enough to live ashore down there. Charlestown Bay, Canouan, St Vincent and Grenadines.
A little headachey. Added about a pint of oil to the engine. Engine start at 6:55, anchor up, out and rounded up to unfurl the mainsail. Motor-sailed out to SW, with wind almost dead astern, and swell from N rolling me.
Around the SW tip of Canouan, and headed for Mayreau. Wind and swells more on beam at first, then changing back to astern as I neared Mayreau. Around the W side, past the anchorage, across bow of anchored "SeaDream Yacht Club", headed for Union Island. Slower, rougher slog across E end of Union.
Rounded up in the mouth of the harbor, tried to furl the mainsail. The outhaul got caught at the end of the boom, a couple of different ways, and it took me a while to sort it out. Meanwhile, a local guy in a skiff kept circling, wanting to put me on a mooring, and a charter sailboat passed much too close behind my stern as I drifted backward. Finally got it done, headed in, and another local skiff had his motor stall as he was right in front of me. Anchor down by 9:15 at Clifton, Union Island, St Vincent and Grenadines.
A few pictures taken along the way: pics.
No free Wi-Fi here at the moment; bummer.
Headache. Went to bed. Up after noon, took a sumatriptan, had lunch, back to bed.
Head felt better by midafternoon, but I still feel sub-par.
Salad and hotdog-onion-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Quiet night. Wind suddenly increased around 10 PM, and kept going all night.
Strange: wind-generator seems to be running pretty normally again, doesn't sound very rough or shudder horribly when shut down. Maybe there was some crunchy bit in the bearing that has been ground down now ? I think the bearing still isn't quite right; generator makes lower-pitched noise than it should. Clifton, Union Island, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Grey, breezey morning. Rain at 8:15.
Still no free Wi-Fi. Last time I was here, there was occasional free Wi-Fi. Sux.
Very grey and lots of wind at 10:45, and I'm just one boat-length directly ahead of a boat which came in after me and put the anchor down next to me. Not a comfortable situation, but my anchor seems to be holding, as it should in 10-foot water with more than 110 feet of chain out. And the wind probably is only 25 knots.
Stayed grey and windy all day, and got fairly cool.
Salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Clifton, Union Island, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Listened to the beginning of the Grenada cruiser's net. As usual, George grousing about someone doing something he doesn't like (removing beach sand ?). Then the weather forecast: E 15-20 all week, occasionally some 25, seas 4-6 today building to 5-7 feet starting tomorrow. Rougher than I'd like, but I have only a short hop across to Carriacou to do. To get timing of visas and cruising permits right, I'll probably do it on Wednesday. [Later, I realized timing doesn't matter, Grenada gives 3-month visa when you enter. I had been thinking it was only 1 month.]
Still grey and windy and sometimes rainy, and no free Wi-Fi.
Ashore around 10:30, to Yacht Club dock. Disposed of two bags of garbage. Exchanged a book at Erica's. Did some yoga.
Then hiked up to top of Fort Hill, above the airport. A stiff uphill hike, with no flat parts. Got lots of exercise. First third was on a one-lane road paved on just the tire-tracks, and a van kept going up past me and then having to reverse back past me when it came face-to-face with descending traffic. Passed a group of four tourists/cruisers who were coming down from the top.
Terrific views from the top, in all directions. I can see my boat, and the sloop that was too close behind has left while I was ashore. Two cannon up here, and mounts for several more. Two gazebos and several picnic tables. Pics.
Coming down, passed a cruiser/tourist guy going up, with a backpack and water, puffing.
Into town, and did some shopping. Bought cheese, onions, tomatoes, bananas, grapefruit, bread. Back to the dinghy and out to the boat, into stiff wind and chop.
Grapefruit and salad and spaghetti and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Windy all night. Clifton, Union Island, St Vincent and Grenadines.
Listened to the beginning of the Grenada cruiser's net. As usual, George grousing about something (Norwegian boat on one of his old moorings without paying him). Then the weather forecast: E 15-20 all week, seas 4-6 today and then building. I think I'll leave today.
Added a little water to the batteries.
Dinghied ashore around 8:30. Disposed of a bag of garbage, did some yoga. Walked to the airport and checked out. Back to the boat.
Engine start at 9:40. Struggled a little with the anchor, because the wind was blowing the bow to one side or the other so quickly. Got it up, went out, rounded up, got mainsail unfurled. Motor-sailed SW toward Carriacou.
At first, seas mostly on the beam, wind a little behind the beam, fairly rolly. But most seas not as big as I expected. As I neared N tip of Carriacou, seas more on the stern. Easy hop across, then further down in the shelter of the island. Engine running slightly hotter than usual, close to 190F. Passed W of Sandy Island, and rounded W end of Carriacou. Managed to catch a wind-shadow of a big hill, and furled the mainsail without any trouble. Up into harbor, nosed very close to the beach, anchor down by 12:10 at Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Took my time getting settled and having lunch, before closing up and launching the dinghy and heading to the officials around 12:40. Waved to Richard on "Odyssey", anchored a bit behind me. To the officials, and the office is closed for lunch. Only had to wait 10 minutes for them to open. Checked in (EC$83.10). Back to boat. And "Odyssey" is gone ! That was quick.
Struggled to get a Wi-Fi connection, but finally switched adapters and got a connection. Had to move laptop up into the cockpit, and even there it was very unreliable.
The wine-selling guy came by, as usual every time I arrive here. A couple of local guys stopped by to invite me to a new floating bar, which looks nearby and with music starting at 7; not what I wanted to hear. Jonathan from "Hedonist" stopped by to say hi; we met a while ago, forgot each other's names, but it was nice to see him again.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Surprisingly uncomfortable night. No wind at all until 1 AM or so, and boat pretty rolly at times. Then the wind was fluky but had a lot of N in it, often holding me mostly parallel to the beach, and very rolly at times. Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Ashore at 2 to Slipways restaurant to play dominoes. Nice to see some people I've met before. Played with Bob and Debbie, Gordon and Judy. Mike watching, and 5 people playing at an adjoining table. Nice conversation. I was in contention at the halfway point, despite some difficult hands, then had a series of disastrous hands and came in 3rd, I think. Chatted afterward, then did a little yoga on the beach.
Coming back to the boat, saw that the VHF antenna on the mizzenmast has a broken mounting, and is hanging on by the cable. Don't know how long it's been that way.
Chili and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
A bit rolly during the night, but not as bad as last night.
Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Skype-called Mom and chatted with her briefly.
In midafternoon, climbed the mizzenmast and fixed the VHF antenna. I had cleverly mounted it to the remains of the base from the old antenna; now the upright part of that base has snapped off. So I wired the antenna onto the remainder of the old base and some rigging, using three pieces of SS seizing-wire.
Feeling achey and headachey from too much computer use; took an ibuprofen.
Salad and leftover chili and a light rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Ashore in early afternoon, to the ferry dock. Disposed of a bag of garbage. Did some yoga in the shade near the base of the dock, to the amusement of several local guys and a little kid. To the grocery store and bought several items. Back to the boat. Hot.
Chicken-onion-rice-carrot and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Propane really is running low now; maybe I'll get one more meal out of it.
Suddenly, wind-generator is running roughly again. Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Fuel freighter is here this morning, filling up the island's gas and diesel tanks.
Went ashore before noon to ferry dock. Did some yoga. Was going to take a walk, but it's hot, and the veggie-lady right here has everything I want to buy. Bought fruit and veg and back to the boat.
Salad and leftover chicken-rice and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Ordered a bunch of stuff online, on EBay and Amazon, to be delivered to NJ. Books, socks, MP3 players and earbuds, gifts for my lady in Barcelona, 12v fans.
Never managed to get ashore; lazy.
Salad and hotdog-onion-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Very still night, and a bit rolly. Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Planning to do the trip down to Grenada tomorrow.
Went ashore before noon to ferry dock. Did some yoga. Disposed of a bag of garbage. Walked N, up the rise, to the place where you can see Sandy Island and Union Island. Bought grapefruit and a tomato from a veggie-lady.
Back in the dinghy, couldn't get the outboard into gear. It's been a bit balky, and I'd been guessing the problem was in the starter-interlock. But now I took the cowling off, and the problem must be in the lower unit, bad news. Took quite a bit of futzing before I could get it into gear.
Switched jib sheets, to put the good one on the starboard side for tomorrow. Added a little water to the batteries.
In midafternoon, snorkeled under the boat and scraped.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner. Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou.
Up before 6. Checked the weather forecast online. Wind maybe a little light today, will be maybe 1 knot stronger tomorrow, but I'm going today.
Engine start at 6:30. Anchor up by 6:40. Motored out through the anchorage, rounded up, unfurled mainsail, and struggled to get the jib up. Finally done by 7, with top 1/10th of jib still wrapped. It'll have to do.
Motored out, dead downwind, grey clouds hovering overhead and almost no wind. Turned the corner of the island, started getting some wind and swells. Started out into open water, and there's plenty of wind.
Rough but reasonably fast passage across the first half of gap between Carriaocu and Grenada. Wind on the beam, most seas also on the beam, so rolly. Kept motor-sailing. Across a couple of tidal rips, which are worrying because they look a lot like surf on a reef, just well out from any land, where there's no reef. Probably an undersea ridge, 40-50 feet deep, and there are strong currents here.
Heard start of Grenada cruiser's net, and a body has been found floating in Prickly Bay this morning. Probably a cruiser off a dinghy; police have just arrived.
Past a couple of local guys on a small converted sloop, fishing. I went close to them because I couldn't figure what the boat was doing, and wondered if it was in distress. Tried to take a picture, but looks like my camera needs a new battery. [Turns out I did get a picture: pic.]
Surprised that almost no one else is out here today. Two cruising sailboats well off to the W, and that's it.
Second half of the gap-passage a little less rolly and rough, but a little less wind, too. Down to Bird Island by 9:30.
Engine off at 9:35, and sailing. Lost only 1/2 or 3/4 knot; probably could have sailed across the gap, too. Still quite rolly, and wind sometimes lighter, sometimes stronger.
Down E side of Grenada, slowly turning more SW, swells still big and on beam and from astern.
11:45, I can see two sailboats well N of me, catching up to me.
Turning more SW and W, boat getting harder to control as wind and swells are more astern. At noon, started engine and started motor-sailing again.
Catamaran motoring up from the W got to the harbor entrance just ahead of me. Fine with me; I need time and room to take down the sails. In and rounded up, furled the mainsail pretty easily, and then the jib furled in smoothly and easily, no problem at all ! I'm amazed.
Motored up to N end of the small harbor, anchor down by 12:50 at St David's Harbour, Grenada.
Some free Wi-Fi here ! But my email doesn't work properly through the connection; strange. Ordered a new camera battery for delivery to NJ.
Since I anchored, wind has circled a bit and then flipped completely, and now a small sloop is directly behind me, and too close for comfort. So at 3:50, started engine, re-anchored.
Took down the jib, since I don't plan to use it tomorrow, and don't want it to unfurl partially by itself.
Salad and hotdog-onion-mushroom-macaroni-cheese concoction and a rum-and-dietCoke for dinner.
Quiet night, but rolly at times. St David's Harbour, Grenada.
Online, confirmed that a cruiser was found dead in the water in Prickly Bay yesterday morning, but I don't know who it was. [Later heard: boat name is "La Benoit", they're from Montreal, and the man who died "was extremely scared of water and couldn't swim".]
Early lunch, then engine start at 11:40. Got the anchor up, while on a muddy lee shore, with wind stronger than I expected. (Forgot to check the weather forecast this morning, not that it mattered, I was going anyway.) Motored up to the windward side of the anchorage and unfurled the mainsail. Motored out, and into the storm !
Not really. Nominally mild conditions (E 15-17 wind, seas E 4 feet), and I'm going W, downwind and down-swell. But it's very rough; there's much more SE in the swells than I expected, and I think they're more like 5 feet. Constantly rolling the boat, and slewing the stern around to keep me beam onto the swells. I can't turn more downwind for quite a while, because ahead some peninsulas jut out to the S, with shoals S of them. If I ease the mainsail out quite a bit, I catch more wind but get less steadying against the rolling.
Another boat heading W, further out than me, and probably sailing. Found out later it is "The Dove". A catamaran heading E, upwind to St David's, both sails up and motoring, and still having a tough time, pitching and rolling.
Rough and rolly, and making progress. Then a huge wave slams into the port side, sends a sheet of water 20 feet high, some of it drenching me through the opening in the port side of the pilothouse, much of it landing on top of the pilothouse roof. I can't recall that ever happening before.
Got past Point Fort Jeudy, and wind and seas eased a bit. Tough time spotting the markers off Clarkes Court Bay, but got them, and soon was able to turn more down-swell and start heading in. A bit of anxiety before I could pick out the markers in front of Hog Island, then saw them, got to them and turned left, and now I'm out of the seas and behind a reef. Into Mt Hartman Bay, rounded up and furled the mainsail (took a while, since part of the furling line has shed its braided outer layer).
Over to the lee side of the anchorage, near the marina, and anchor down by 1:10 at Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada. I haven't anchored over here; I'm trying this now to see if I can get some wind for the wind-generator, and a short paddle to the marina if my outboard proves troublesome.
Bummer; no free Wi-Fi.
Launched the dinghy, pumped up the tubes. Untied the propane tank from the stern of the boat, but it STILL has some liquid in it, so put it back. Started the outboard, and it went into gear easily.
Ashore to the marina and said hi to a couple of people. Went for a nice walk, and saw a couple more people I've met before. Back to the marina, into the office, and the guy recognized me right away and handed me my Christmas package from my lady in Spain. He had to pay EC$5.75 (about US$2.50) to get it, but told me not to bother about the money. A slip inside the package says it was picked up Feb 19, and it was sent Nov 30, so that's about 2.5 months from Spain to here.
Back to the boat. The Christmas package is very nice, candies and a Christmas hat and a belt and a nice card and a Christmas-tree ornament: pic. Looks like Customs (on one end or the other) opened the candy boxes to check them.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover mac-and-cheese concoction and a rum-and-cherryjuice for dinner.
Some bugs swarming inside the pilothouse, attracted by the light, I think. Swatted some of them.
Quiet night, slightly rolly a few times. Just enough rain to wash off the boat a bit. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Some nice houses directly behind me: pics.
Did a bucket of laundry.
Ashore in late afternoon for a walk. Outboard gear-shifting still a bit balky.
Wasn't sure earlier, but now I am: "Merlin" is gone ! Dave the conspiracy-nut was holed up aboard it, anchored in extreme NE corner of the anchorage, for years. [Later heard he left for St Thomas because his passport was expiring. Also his boat-registration expired a while ago, and some people suspect he never paid the official fees here in Grenada.]
Took down the mainsail. As usual, the halyard winch brake was sticky, so I tapped it with the winch handle. Unusually, the brake released completely and zip, the sail came down almost all the way in one rush. Could have been bad if the heavy swivel at the top landed on the solar panels. One loop of the sail went over the side, but didn't reach the water.
Some bugs swarming inside the pilothouse in evening, attracted by the light. Slaughtered them.
Grapefruit and spaghetti and a rum-and-cherryjuice for dinner. Several lovely chocolate truffles from Spain for dessert. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Ashore for shopping bus at 9:30. Nice to meet people I know. Out at the bank, walked to Scotiabank to use ATM (checked for counterfeit EC$100 bills), walked to IGA. Got a ton of groceries (new discount card not arrived after 4 months; old one still works), chatted with Mirelle and others. To Marketing Board, to CK's, back to boat by noon. Had trouble starting the outboard; I think the kill-switch had gotten jostled to on.
Someone told me the body found in Pricky Bay on Monday morning was a cruiser from a Canadian boat. Husband missing since Sunday night, wife was on board wondering where he was. Dinghy was found in gear and run out of gas.
Ashore after 1 to the marina bar to do Wi-Fi. Email still not working right; must be an email or browser issue, not a connection issue.
Online, couldn't find any info about the gear-shift problem I'm having with my Tohatsu 6 outboard. Guess I'll try changing the gear-oil (maybe it's leaked out or something). Looked through the service manual yesterday, and there's a procedure for adjusting the shift lever, but it mentions some part I couldn't identify (drive shaft housing grommet), and I don't think I'm having that problem anyway because I have problems shifting into either forward or reverse, not just one of them.
At 2:30 or so, cruisers starting an acoustic jam session and sing-along; nice.
Started gathering info for my income tax return.
Salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-cherryjuice for dinner. Several lovely chocolate truffles from Spain for dessert. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Grey, damp, rainy morning. Headachey; took an ibuprofen.
Sunnier by 10 or so. But solar controller not working properly. Bypassed it, still don't think I'm getting the readings I should. Messed with it several more times during the day, but no luck. Fortunately, it's a windy day, so the wind-generator is giving me power.
Ashore in late afternoon, to take a walk.
Salad and chili and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Several lovely chocolate truffles from Spain for dessert.
Motion-detector is flashing low-battery. Starting to seem like everything on the boat is broken (but the engine, mainsail, hull are okay). And I'm being lazy and not working on any of it. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Messed with the solar wiring some more. Took out the big fuse, tested it, no problem, put it back in, and suddenly I'm getting solar power ! Maybe a loose connection ? Still bypassing the controller, but now I know at least one of the solar panels is okay.
Looked in the cockpit lockers to find outboard gear oil, and found a mess. Looks like a jug of bilge-cleaner leaked and mostly drained, then dried, forming a hard cakey mass. Dumped the last couple of inches of cleaner into the bilge, scraped off some of the mess, decided the rest of it wasn't hurting anything. Found the gear oil in a deck-box on the stern.
Turned off the solar bypass switch, and the solar controller and charging are working fine now. One problem off the list.
Changed the outboard's gear oil. An awkward operation: leaving the dinghy hoisted on the davits, I lower the swim platform below it, squeeze down the boarding ladder between boat stern and dinghy side, and sit on the platform with tools and paper towels and trash-bucket and supplies next to me. Reach out over the water and work on two short bolts in the side of the outboard's lower unit; don't want to drop them into the water. Get the lower bolt out, hold a jar underneath the outboard skeg to catch the oil. Get the upper bolt out, and oil flows more freely. Really need four hands to do this well. And I never have figured out how to refill the oil properly: you're supposed to pump it in upwards, through the lower hole, then fasten the upper hole when full, then fasten the lower hole. I don't have enough hands or easy enough access to do that, or a good enough seal on the spout into the lower hole, and usually most of the oil just runs right back out while I'm fumbling with the upper bolt. So I just drain the oil, close the lower hole, and fill through the upper hole, giving time for air to bubble out.
Worked well today; no problems. No water in the old oil. Not sure if it was low (there's no good way to tell), but I don't think so. We'll see if the shifting problem is affected.
Stowed the sails down in the main cabin.
Ashore at 12:45 to do Wi-Fi and dominoes. Chatted with John and Janet from "Ventoso".
At 2, only two others for dominoes: Larry and Diane from "The Dove". I had pretty amazing luck (as well as some skill), and Larry got a bit grumpy about it, so the game wasn't as much fun as usual.
Salad and leftover chili and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Ashore at 8, and walked over to Prickly Bay Marina for a yoga class at 8:30.
Then at 9:30, started helping with a book-sorting project, the main reason I came over here. Turns out someone in Scotland donated three HUGE pallets of books to the people of Grenada, and they've been stuck in Customs for a while. Customs has been demanding that someone pay tax on it, and no one was willing. So Darren, the manager of the marina, decided to pay it, and now we're going to sort through the books so some can be thrown away, some donated to schools, some sent to the library.
A huge job, bigger than I expected. Probably 15 of us sorting, another 5 packing the outgoing boxes. Pic (and this was us just getting started, the whole thing expanded). The incoming boxes are sprinkled inside and out with cockroach-droppings, and the lower parts of the stacks have some big, live cockroaches hiding in them. Some of the books are damaged or about useless or outmoded subjects, and we throw them away. The rest get sorted into about 20 categories, with a lot of judgement calls going on. I see half a dozen books I'd like to take myself, and some people are taking a few books, but I resist the temptation.
By noon, I've had enough, I'm hot and tired and footsore and hungry and got too much sun. We're probably only halfway done, but I'm out of here. Back to Secret Harbour and back to the boat.
Made a good start on my income taxes. Need a few more numbers.
Salad and sausage-onion-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Last of the chocolate truffles for dessert. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Windy day. Ashore at 1 to do Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi very balky at first, had to get the guy to switch me to a different network.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner.
Very still night. Why is the wind like this ? Windy all day, while I also have solar power. Then at night, when the solar is gone and I'd really like some wind power, no wind. At dawn, the sun and wind will come up at the same time. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Ashore in early afternoon, to do yoga and take a walk. Hot. Outboard gear-shift was very balky afterward; got stuck in reverse and took a long time to get it free.
Worked on finding leaks in the dinghy-tubes. Pumped up the bow and port tubes extra-hard and drenched them with soapy water. Didn't see anything at first, then found two leaks. Finished, started hoisting the dinghy, and saw two more leaks bubbling up. Pics. I guess the fabric is getting porous, and patching is no longer going to work, some kind of general sealing will be necessary. I think this dinghy is about 20 years old.
Celery and spaghetti and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner.
Very still night, with some rolling. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Ashore after 8, and walked over to Prickly Bay Marina for a yoga class at 8:30. Then at 9:30, helped with the book-sorting project again. Gave a small donation to Darren, to help with the Customs fees. Grabbed 3 nice books for myself during the sorting. Pic (almost finished; pallets at right are most of the result). Apparently some govt ministers and such are coming this afternoon to view the results and say some nice words. Finished it up, and back to the boat by 11:30.
Salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Ashore at 9:30 for the shopping van. To ACE Hardware and then Budget for dinghy-sealant ingredients, but no luck on the paint. And it would seem to make more sense to use 4000UV (flexible, UV-resistant) instead of 5200, except fine print on the 4000UV says "don't use with polyurethane". Guess I'll have to look online.
Long, slow trip with lots of waiting. Groceries at IGA, stop at Marketing Board, stop at CK's. Back to the boat by 1.
Huge catamaran arrived in late afternoon: pic.
Went ashore for a walk.
Chicken-onion-rice-carrot-cabbage and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Ashore in late morning, for yoga and a walk. Back at the dinghy dock, got the outboard into reverse briefly, then futzed with it for 5 minutes as it wouldn't go into any gear. Eventually got it into reverse, so reversed halfway back to the boat. When I had finished the upwind leg, and could paddle home, tried the gearshift and got it into forward.
Did a small bucket of laundry.
Back ashore at 1:30 to do Wi-Fi. Started filing my income tax returns online. Interesting: tax preparation site was able to import PDF of last year's return (done through a different site) and grab info from it. Site asked if I had health insurance. Put in the data and e-filed my fed and state returns (only cost $13 to the preparation site). Will have to wait a few days to see if the returns are "accepted" by the govts. [Federal return was "accepted" within half an hour.]
Skype-called Mom and chatted with her briefly.
Into the dinghy, got it into reverse, and let it run in that gear for a while. Then got it into forward without too much trouble.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover chicken-rice and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Sunny morning, then grey setting in. Starting at 9:45, wind howling from SE, and there's a rocky lee shore 50-60 feet behind me. Got the engine ready to start, but I'm sure the anchor will hold. Light rain starting at 10:15, then grey and heavier rain starting at 11:15. More at 12:15.
Ashore at 2 to do Wi-Fi and play dominoes. Nice game with Daniel and Brenda. I made a lot of mistakes at the beginning, then got focused and also luck kicked in, and I won going away.
Online, NJ tax return accepted by NJ.
Salad and sausage-onion-mushroom-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Windy morning, then grey later. Was going to work on the outboard, but I developed a headache. Took an ibuprofen and a nap. Felt bad until 2 or so.
Ashore in late afternoon to take a walk.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Hauled the outboard up onto the stern deck. Had planned to hang it upright from the mizzen-boom so I could work on it, but there's no lift-ring on top of the power-head. Tried rigging a rope-sling, but it's top-heavy, so that resulted in a precarious situation, not hanging straight, dangerous pendulum as the boat rocks. Thought of running a 2x4 somewhere as a clamp-stand, but there's no convenient place on deck at the right height, and I don't seem to have any 2x4s aboard any more (had a lot a few years ago, when I had to take the transmission out).
Did what I could on the outboard: greased the grease-points, and greased and loosened the half-broken tilt-lock thing so it might be usable. But couldn't do anything on the gear-shift problem.
Lots of boats zooming past, making big wakes. But finally they finished, and I wrestled the outboard down into the dinghy and got it back in place. Let the oil settle, checked the oil, started it, all okay.
Then the weather turned grey and big bursts of fine rain started coming through, starting around 3:30.
Went ashore around 4:45 and took a walk, getting rained on much of the time. Back to the marina, and waited 15 minutes for a huge rainstorm to go through. Out to the boat 5 minutes ahead of another big rainstorm.
Salad and chili and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner.
Plenty of wind all night, keeping the wind-generator going. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
By 9, wind howling from the ENE. Kept going most of the day.
Re-caulked the base of the mainmast.
Ashore in late afternoon to do some yoga and go for a walk. Chatted with Pete and Dee from "Windlass", and then briefly with Scott from "Scherzo".
Salad and leftover chili and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Added water to the batteries, and some cells took a LOT. I guess the wind-generator has been pushing them pretty hard.
Ashore in midafternoon to get some exercise. And was told a big story: yesterday (or maybe Tuesday) the local van-driver had a big fight with a cruiser, tried to strangle him with the chain on a marina garage door, police were called, the driver has been banned from the marina, big legal troubles to ensue. Wow ! The cruiser who told me was delighted; he (like others) has a grudge against that driver.
Did some yoga, went for a walk.
Gave myself a very short haircut.
Salad and hotdog-onion-cheese-cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Headache; took a paracetamol.
A cruiser stopped by at 9:10 to ask me to buy some things for him on the shopping bus this morning, and told me the other side of the van-driver-fight story. And it was a pretty good "other side"; sounds like the driver was well provoked. Supposedly the guy I thought was a "cruiser" is more like a local white guy who lives on a boat and allegedly is a bit of a druggie. He was yelling to everyone that the van-driver is a drug smuggler, then used the N-word on him (the driver is black). That's when the fighting started. [Later, someone told me several cruisers who were there supported this version of events, and may have told the marina management so.]
Ashore for the 9:30 shopping van, and the van-driver is there as usual, it's as if nothing happened. So I guess he isn't banned from the marina.
Out at the bank, walked to Scotiabank and used the ATM, to a hardware store, then to IGA for groceries. Watched some nice soccer on the telly while drinking a mango-goldenapple smoothie. Off to Marketing Board and CK's, back to marina. Boat at the seawall having mast taken off, I think, with the prettiest rigger I've ever seen: pics. Back to boat by 11:50.
Gave groceries and change to cruiser.
Ashore at 12:45 to do Wi-Fi. Online, ordered baby clothes for Dori's gift to Dori's sister, and a couple of books for myself.
Celery and salad and leftover cornbread concoction and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
In late afternoon, went ashore for a walk.
Grapefruit and salad and spaghetti and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
A little achey in midday; took an ibuprofen.
Ashore at 1:30 to do Wi-Fi and dominoes. Nice game with Connie and Bruce from "Gitanos", Vee and Sylvio, and Michael.
Celery and tuna-salad sandwiches and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Started engine at 8:30. Anchor up, over to other side of harbor, anchor down by 8:50 at Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada. Safer place to leave the boat while I'm gone, in case we get heavy weather. But now I have to watch how the boat swings near the neighbors, and make sure the anchor settles in.
In early afternoon, pulled secondary anchor chain out onto deck, coiled it nicely, put anchor on top. So if a hurricane comes while I'm away, I can call someone and have them put out the anchor for me.
Later, detached rope from primary anchor chain, took it to stern deck, shackled it to the third anchor, so that's ready for someone to deploy if necessary. Then realized I'd forgotten to add a length of chain to it, so did that.
Ashore in midafternoon, for yoga and a walk. Hot.
In bright sunshine, running laptop and inverter and refrigerator, my solar panels aren't keeping up with the load. I think one of my panels has died, so I'd be getting 7A instead of 14A. Will have to deal with it when I get back to the boat in July.
Gave myself more of a haircut. Very short.
Grapefruit and salad and leftover spaghetti and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner.
No wind in this part of the harbor, and my batteries got very low during the night. Fortunately my refrigerator is just about empty; I've been eating up everything in preparation for flying out on Wednesday.
Up several times during the night to look for the lunar eclipse and "blood moon". Suddenly at 2:30, there it was, half of the full moon eclipsed. Moon off to the W or WSW of me. A planet showing near the moon, too. At 2:45, about 80% eclipsed, can see the rest of the moon glowing faintly. At 2:50, about 90% eclipsed. By 3:05, 99% eclipsed, just a little sliver of sunlight at the lower edge of the moon. And then thick slow clouds came over and wiped out the view for the entire rest of the night. Typical. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Cloudy and still morning, and rolly. Then sunny and less rolly.
Went ashore in time for the shopping bus, but didn't get on it. Gave Dick EC$5 and asked him to buy me a couple of apples to eat on the plane tomorrow. Gave George a note about picking me up tomorrow morning to take me to the airport. Into the marina office ot use the book-exchange, and there are two Barcelona/Catalunya guidebooks ! That's where I'll be in about 2 weeks. They're slightly old, 1998 and 2003, but that's okay. Back to the boat.
Started packing. Put more plastic over anchor-windlass hole in foredeck.
Dick still not back from shopping bus by 2:45 ! Expected him back by 12:30 or so. What happened ?
Wetn ashore around 4, and there was Dick at the dinghy-dock. Apparently he came back on th elate bus, his outboard wouldn't start, so he had a long late lunch in the marina restaurant, then his outboard still wouldn't start. As I arrived, someone was coming to tow him out to his boat.
Did yoga and took a walk. Out to Dick's boat and picked up my apples, then to my boat.
Hauled outboard up off the dinghy and into the cockpit. Hoisted and stowed dinghy. Cleared jugs off deck.
Salad and yogurt and cheese sandwiches and a rum-and-dietcola for dinner.
Various packing and stowing things, getting ready to leave tomorrow. Have to remember things to take to Barcelona, decide what to wear on the flights, etc. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada.
Finished packing and stowing stuff. Picked up by George before 5:45. Off to airport, paid him EC$60, changed clothes, checked in, through security by 6:45. Power and Wi-Fi in the gate area.
Landed at Miami around 11:35, walked and walked to get to Immigration, then did baggage and Customs. Walked and sky-train and walked to get to connecting gate by 12:45, and my laptop AC adapter is gone ! Must have fallen out of my bag in the plane and got kicked away under a seat somewhere. And I specifically checked to see if anything had fallen out; guess I didn't check hard enough.
No free Wi-Fi here.
As I board the flight to Philadelphia, saw the screen say it's 42F in Philly; I'm going to be cold.
On the flight, realized I should have checked to see if my adapter had been lost at the security checkpoint. But even that would have taken a while to get back to, from the gate.
Uneventful flight to Philadelphia. Got my suitcase, across street to train station, changed from sandals to sneakers-and-socks, waited 20 minutes for a train to 30th St Station. Free Wi-Fi there, as I expected; emailed my brother to tell him what train I'd be on. Then almost missed the train; got confused between trains to Trenton and West Trenton, both leaving at exactly the same time. Had to dash from one platform to the other at the last second, hauling my suitcase down and up stairs. Got to the right train just as the doors were closing, and stuck my carry-on bag in the gap to stop the door from closing and the train leaving. Everything stopped for 10 seconds, I heard someone on the platform behind me say something like "Oh, my", and then the doors opened again and I got on. Then someone got OFF through the door I had just entered; what was that about ?
My brother was at the W Trenton station when I arrived. Got to brother's townhouse around 7:45 PM.
Went online and ordered a new AC adapter for the laptop, to be delivered Friday. Mount Hartman Bay, Grenada; I'm in New Jersey, then Barcelona, then NJ again.
Opened up all the packages that were waiting for me: books, presents to take to Barcelona, clothes, new battery for camera, new MP3 players and earbuds.
Took Mom to lunch, then went to Walmart for more stuff: Easter candy, clothes, shoes, stuff to take to Barcelona.
Laptop AC adapter delivered; back in business.
Please send any comments to me.