Lists for
operating and
maintaining a boat.

Please send any comments to me.

This page updated: September 2005

How To Do Key Things section
Emergencies section
Equipment Problems section
Specific Situations section
Periodic Maintenance section

How To Do Key Things

These lists are useful in case you are disabled or not on board.
Keep a printed copy in some place known to guests and crew.

Send distress call on Marine VHF radio. (Range limited to 25 miles or so.)
"Mayday" is for grave and imminent danger to life or vessel (heart attack, fire, lost MOB, etc).
"Pan" (pronounced "pahn") is for distress less severe than Mayday (need help).
"Securite" (pronounced "saycuritay") is for announcing hazards to navigation.
1. Skipper makes the decision to call, and decides what kind of call.
2. Turn Marine VHF radio on, select channel 16, press transmit button.
3. Say "Mayday" or "Pan" three times, boat name or radio call sign, "over".
4. Release transmit button, listen for response.
  Adjust squelch down if no response after 2 tries.
  Make sure transmit power is set to highest level.
  Make sure radio is getting electricity.
  Make sure antenna cable is connected and antenna is okay.
  If no response on channel 16 after several tries, try 9 and 13, then scan for traffic on any channel and break in there.
5. Describe the emergency. Say "over" and release transmit button after talking each time.
6. Give your location, as latitude/longitude from GPS, or compass headings to known landmarks (e.g. "1 mile south of ABC island"), or route (e.g. "left ABC 1 hour ago en route to DEF").
7. Describe the help needed.
8. Describe the condition of the boat.
9. Identify the boat by size, description and color.
10. State number of persons on board.
11. Indicate how communication will be continued (channel, constant listening or specific times, etc).

Send distress call on Marine SSB or Ham radio. (Potentially worldwide range.)
1. Skipper makes the decision to call, and decides what kind of call.
2. something ...

Launch liferaft / abandon ship.
1. Skipper makes the decision. Is crew safer on boat or raft ?
2. Send distress call.
3. Have crew drink as much water as possible.
4. Put on wet-suits, take masks and snorkels and fins, if available ?
5. Everyone puts on PFDs.
6. Get abandon-ship bag.
  And any extra water, food, clothing that can be grabbed easily.
  Get handheld VHF.
7. Unstrap liferaft from deck.
8. Do not cut line from liferaft to boat.
9. Launch to leeward (unless there is fire).
10. Get crew into raft.
11. When required, cut painter holding raft to boat.
  Stay attached to boat if at all possible, but don't let the boat drag the raft under.

Launch/stow dinghy.
Launch:
1. something ...
Stow:
1. Remove motor, hoist it to deck, and stow it.
2. Hoist dinghy to deck level.
3. Wash off dinghy.
4. Swing onto deck and lash down.

Contact you.
1. something ...

Contact your relatives.
1. something ...

Contact your insurance company.
1. something ...

Emergencies

"If it's gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there."
-- Captain Ron

Medical.
- Basic first aid sequence (more or less):
  1. Maybe call for help.
  2. Put on gloves (Body Substance Isolation).
    If not done first, you won't get around to it.
  3. Is the scene safe ?
    Don't get anyone else injured.
  4. Is victim conscious ?
    If so, they are breathing and have pulse.
  5. Chance of head injury ?
    If so, stabilize head/neck/spine, don't move them.
  6. Is victim breathing ?
    If not, clear airway, maybe do rescue breathing.
  7. Does the victim have a pulse ?
    If not, do CPR.
  8. Severe bleeding ?
    If so, apply direct pressure, elevate, maybe use pressure point.
  9. Call/send for help.
  10. Examine for injuries (DOTS: deformities, open wounds, tenderness, swelling).
  11. Record vital signs (breathing, pulse, blood pressure, temperature).
  12. Ask for information (SAMPLE: signs/symptoms, allergies, medications, pertinent history, last oral intake, events that caused injury).
- Key decision: better to treat on-board or take to on-shore professionals ? They have better facilities, more knowledge, and local knowledge.
- If infection in Tropics, start antibiotics very quickly.
- Make entries in medical log.
- Use radio to get medical advice ?
  Be prepared to report: symptoms and duration of them, age/condition/allergies of patient, vital signs, location of pain/injury, medications administered, medications available.
- Consider sailing closer to help even if the initial situation is under control; their condition could deteriorate later.
- Don't do first aid too fast (unless not breathing, major bleeding, or poison bite). Don't do too much, unless professional help is far away.
- From article by Jeffrey Isaac in Ocean Voyager 2004:
  A sick crewmember may be uncomfortable and grumpy, but if they are eating, drinking, peeing and pooping normally, they are probably okay. When they stop doing one of these things, or when the brain doesn't seem to be working right, you have cause for concern. ...
- From "Medicine For The Outdoors" by Paul Auerbach (on Amazon):
  Always assume the worst. Every person you meet has a broken neck or a heart attack until proven otherwise. ... Never administer medicines or perform procedures if you are not sure what you are doing. ... If you are not certain what to do and the situation isn't worsening, don't interfere. ... Even if your treatment seems successful, a good general rule is to consult a doctor if you would have done so ordinarily. ... Never overestimate your abilities as a healer or count upon good fortune. Assume clinical conditions will deteriorate, particularly in harsh environments. ...

Recovering (boarding) a man-overboard. (practice with a real person, or a buoy attached to a bucket)
- Extend swim ladder so MOB can climb back on board.
- Deploy QuickStep or something like that, if available.
- Dangle line with loops in it so MOB can climb back on board.
- Clip a halyard to their harness.
- Clip a halyard to a harness and hand it down to them.
- Clip a halyard to a bosun's chair (or bridle attached to tubular fender) and lower it to them.
- Run a bight of line from winch to water to stanchion.
  MOB stands on bight and gets winched up.
- Launch dinghy, have them get into dinghy and then into main boat from there.
- Use main-sail or jib as a sling to bring the person back on board.
- Use a Tri-Buckle (or home-made equivalent) as a sling to bring the person back on board.
- MOB grabs stanchion with hands, hooks feet up over toerail, uses legs to lever body up onto deck.
- Heel boat to lower the deck near the MOB ?
- Use anchor windlass and rode to bring them up ?
- Use a special winching device: MOBup

Hole in boat.
- Activate bilge pumps.
- Check all through-hulls (including sensors installed through the hull) and head and sink and propeller shaft.
- Tack or heave to and heel the boat, to raise hole above waterline.
- Get everyone into PFD's.
- Tap wooden plug into broken through-hull, and tie it securely.
- Soak a rag in epoxy putty and jam it into the hole.
- Stuff a greased rag or towel or carpeting into the hole, and tap a peg into that.
- Jam something rubber (a ball, foam, cushioning, fender) into the hole.
- From inside, put cushion over hole, flat board over cushion, jam boat-hook against board.
- From outside, stick a "plumbers thumb" or rubber plug or cork into the hole, or stick a toilet plunger head over the hole.
- From outside, put a collision mat or sail or tarp over the hole.
- Bail with buckets, into cockpit or sinks.
- Send distress call ? Maybe just advisory to USCG or nearby boats, not Mayday.
- Head for sheltered waters or harbor, even if leak is controlled.
- Head for shallow water, if leak can't be controlled.
- (Longer-term) Repairing: after leak is controlled from inside, cover it from outside (maybe with windowscreen or cloth impregnated with epoxy or Marine-Tex), and then repair it from the inside (maybe with fiberglass cloth and WEST System epoxy).

Water in boat.
- Turn on all bilge pumps.
- Get everyone into PFD's.
- Bucket-bail into galley sink.
- Bucket-bail into cockpit.
- Look for leak.
- Is water fresh or salt ?

Broken rudder.
- Look for leaks around rudder stock, and look again periodically.
- If in heavy weather, there is danger of being rolled; close all hatches and ports immediately.
- Stabilize the boat (anchor, sea anchor) while investigating and jury-rigging.
- Use wind-vane rudder.
- Steer with sails, with or without motoring.
- Steer by trailing a drogue or bucket or fenders or lines from the stern.
- Fix partially lost rudder by strapping sheets of wood to remaining section of rudder ?
- Use dinghy to steer boat.
- Use dinghy to tow/push/move boat. Best to push from behind.
- Call for a tow from another boat.
- Send distress call ? Maybe just advisory to USCG or nearby boats, not Mayday.

Broken steering.
- Use auto-pilot or wind-vane to steer.
- Emergency tiller.
- Use lines to eyebolt or hole in top of rudder.
- See "Broken rudder" above.

Dismasted.
1. Is everyone all right ?
2. Is the boat sinking ? Check bilges and all through-hulls.
3. Prevent mast from doing further damage to hull.
4. Use spinnaker or whisker pole as mast.
5. Rig an A-frame instead of a mast.
6. Send distress call ?

Knockdown.
1. Is everyone all right ?
2. Is the boat sinking ? Check bilges and all through-hulls.
3. Is the rigging intact ?
4. Avoid another knockdown: reef or drop sails.
5. Look for damage below, in all lockers, battery and engine compartments, etc.

Lightning strike.
1. Is everyone all right ?
2. Is the boat sinking ? Check bilges and all through-hulls.
3. If at sea, is the rigging intact ?
4. If at sea, does the engine still run ?
5. Check critical electronics (GPS, radio, navigation lights, etc).
6. Check compass deviation. It may have been changed.
7. Check non-critical electronics.
8. Check non-obvious electronics (outboard engine ignition, EPIRB and radio in liferaft, etc).
9. Check all wiring.
10. Check entire lightning-protection system.
11. Check outside of hull below waterline.
12. Check all metal fittings on outside of hull below waterline.

Fire.

From "Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia" by Steve and Linda Dashew (on Amazon):
"A minute wasted at the beginning of a blaze can mean the difference between saving or losing your boat."

When discovered:
1. Cut off fire's fuel, heat and/or oxygen. And electricity.
2. Turn boat downwind, and drop sails or stop engine (keeps fire out of cockpit, reduces fanning, less boat motion).
3. Send distress call.
4. Jettison burning material.
5. Shut off fuel to galley.
6. Turn off DC electrical main.
7. Disconnect AC shore-power cables, if any.
8. Smother fire with wet blankets or towels.
9. After exhausting fire extinguishers, douse fire with seawater, fresh water, and/or baking soda.
10. Tighten limits on fire: close hatches, ports, doors.
11. Wet down your clothes to protect you while fighting fire.
12. Jettison high-flammables before they become involved in fire ?
13. Get PFD's on everyone.
14. Get 1 crew into dinghy (to rescue others if they have to abandon ship).
15. Consider launching liferaft.
After fire is doused:
1. Continue cooling and monitoring area to prevent flare-up.
2. Check crew and boat for damage.
3. Cancel or update distress call.
4. Determine cause of fire, to avoid causing another fire.
5. Replenish fire-fighting equipment ASAP.
6. Check equipment for damage caused by fire or fire-fighting.

Collision.
1. Are all people okay ?
2. Are boats taking on water ?
3. Danger of further collisions ?
4. Are boats damaged ?
5. Take photo's of damage to each boat.
6. Report collision to Coast Guard, state boating authority, insurance companies.

Aground.
1. Is there damage to the hull (leaking) ? Water in bilge ? Keep checking periodically.
2. Try sailing off.
3. Try motoring off (but avoid sucking mud/sand into intake).
4. Will tide float you off ?
5. Have everyone put on PFD's.
6. Try using anchor to kedge off. Take anchor out in dinghy.
  Or lift anchor off the bow, walk it down the side of the boat, and drop it off the stern quarter, then crank with windlass. Be careful to run the rode outside of all rigging, and keep it away from prop and rudder.
  Two kedges, at 45 degrees to each other, let you "wriggle" the boat.
  Use snatch blocks to give increased pulling power.
7. Try using boom and weight (people, dinghy full of water, halyard to another boat) or sails to heel boat over, then engine to power off.
  Don't heel boat with line from masthead; attach line to midpoint of mast, or use bridle from deck to masthead.
8. Dive (carefully) to see what you're on, and which way is safe.
9. Use dinghy to take soundings around boat, find which way is safe.
10. Use dinghy to tow/push boat off, or work it loose.
  Maybe in conjunction with main engine ?
11. Lighten boat by dropping anchors and chain (with buoys for later recovery), pumping out holding tank, dumping fresh water, launching dinghy full of non-essential people ?
12. Have nearby boat (or use dinghy to) create a wake that might help work you off.
13. Hail nearby boats for a tow.
14. Caution: towing off can do major damage to rudder or propeller.
15. Call a friend for a tow.
16. Call a commercial service for a tow.
17. Don't call Coast Guard unless life-threatening situation, or need them to contact commercial towing service for you.
18. If heeling badly, close through-hulls and ports/hatches.
19. Afterward, if you motored in muddy water, check cooling water intake filter.
20. Afterward, check keel/rudder/propeller for damage.

Engine won't stop (runaway diesel engine).
1. Open decompression lever (or loosen injectors).
2. Cut off air flow (with board or book or very thick plastic bag over air intake; don't use your hand, or rags; or discharge CO2 fire extinguisher into air intake).
3. Cut off fuel flow (with lever on injector pump, or cutoff valve in fuel line).
  But could keep going on oil, or fuel in lines ?
4. Cut off electricity (ignition switch may be shorted).
5. Put load on engine if possible (put in gear, unless high RPM's).

Security threat (pirates, robbers, threatening people approaching boat).
- Avoid situations by travelling in safe areas, and with other boats.
- Careful: unknown people may be coast guard, police, DEA, military.
- Careful: it may be a misunderstanding due to language/cultural differences.
- Wake everyone up; get everyone on deck.
- Run away.
- Call nearby boats for backup.
  Let threatening people see you do it.
- Shine bright lights at them.
- Use loud voice through bullhorn or hailer to intimidate them.
- Start engine so you can run away, or avoid being boarded, or avoid being rammed.
- Be ready with boat-hooks, mace, other non-lethal weapons.
- More dangerous weapons: flares, flare-gun.
- Put on PFD's; someone may fall overboard.
  Lifevests can protect against blows too.
- Secure easily-stolen items.

Equipment Problems

Engine won't start.
1. Battery switch in wrong position ?
2. Dead starting battery ?
  (Or low voltage: will cause rapid clicking sound.)
  Switch to house battery, check that wiring connections are clean and tight, or recharge battery, or use special battery pack for jumping dead batteries, or try manual starting, or get jump-start from genset, or get jump-start from other boat.
3. Fuel shutoff (kill switch) in wrong position ?
4. Transmission in gear ?
5. Try more glow-plug time, if applicable.
6. Decompression lever in wrong position ?
7. Out of fuel ? (Can run diesel engine on mixture of kerosene and 4% motor oil.)
8. Fuel valve in wrong position ?
9. Water in fuel ?
10. Leaks in fuel line ?
11. Air in fuel system ?
12. Water in cylinders ?
13. Propeller fouled ?
14. Gasoline engine:
  1. Pull spark plug to see if gas getting to it.
  2. Spark plug fouled ?
  3. Check for good spark. If not, open distributor and examine.
  4. Tap on carburetor to free stuck float.
  5. Open carburetor float chamber to clean it.

Anchor is dragging.
- Let out more scope.
- Anchor in a different place.
- Add sentinel/kellet (weight) to anchor rode.
- Add second anchor on different anchor rode, to different cleat.
- Add second anchor in series on same anchor rode.
- Use bigger or different type of anchor.
- Use engine to relieve strain on anchor.

Anchor won't free.
- Sail up on top of it and then let swells lift boat and work anchor out. Or move crew from bow to stern and back to move bow up and down. But make sure deck hardware can take the strain, and don't let windlass take the strain. And may have to use chafing gear.
- Start engine so repeated use of the windlass doesn't drain the batteries.
- Sail a circle around the anchor so the rode fouls a fluke and trips the anchor.
- Pull the anchor from different angles to work it out.
- Use a grapnel to snag anchor.
- Slide a ring or loop of chain down the rode and down the anchor shank, ease the rode, then pull from 180 degrees to rode, at shallow angle.
- Slide a loop of chain down the rode, to snag anchor stock or cross-piece.
- Dive on anchor, maybe with a grapnel.
- Tie buoy (fender) to bitter end of rode, record lat/long, and abandon anchor; come back later to retrieve it.

Anchor windlass is broken, need to raise heavy anchor.
- Use jib winch and line with chain-hook (or rolling hitch).
  Maybe with multi-part tackle too.
- If the anchor is free, just need to raise it (I think):
  (Works with rope, maybe not with chain.)
  From John Dunsmoor:
  You have a large float with a metal ring about a foot in diameter attached to the float. Then you place this ring around the anchor rode and throw it into the water. Then you power the vessel along. The pressure on the rode pulls the float through the water. But the drag of the float is greater than the weight of the rode so some rode pulls through the ring. In the end the ring is hooked by the anchor and all the rode is on the surface. The boat reverses and hauls in the rode, no weight. This a commercial fisherman trick for anchoring in deep water.
- Somehow use another boat's windlass to assist ?
- Tie buoy (fender) to bitter end of rode and abandon anchor; come back later to retrieve it.

Anchor is lost, need to anchor.
1. Tie bow-and-stern to any strong points available: pilings, rocks, trees, etc.
2. Dive and tie rode to strong point underwater: rock, tree root, etc.
3. Find a mooring.
4. Borrow an anchor from another boat.
5. Raft up to an anchored boat.

Propeller is fouled.
1. Regain control of boat: raise sail or drop anchor.
2. Put transmission in neutral and pull on line that is fouling prop.
  Maybe try turning shaft in reverse direction with a pipe wrench.
3. Try a brief shot of reverse gear while pulling on line.
4. Anchor and dive on propeller.
5. Sail; don't use engine.

No electrical.
1. Check switch and circuit-breaker settings.
2. Check voltages starting at batteries.
3. Check fuses.
4. Check wires for continuity.
5. If navigation lights down, sail only during daylight.
6. If radio and instruments down, use handhelds.

Dead batteries.
1. Switch to other battery-bank.
2. Check water/electrolyte in batteries.
3. Run genset or solar panels or wind generator to charge batteries.
4. Hand-start engine.
5. Get good battery from another boat.
6. Take dead battery to another boat for charging.
7. Get genset from another boat.
8. Jump-start from another boat.
9. Sail to port.
10. Give batteries time to recover a bit (enough to run radio).
11. Shake batteries up ?
12. Add fresh electrolyte.

Head broken.
1. Valves set properly ?
2. Pump working ?
3. Holding tank full ?
4. Holding tank vent clogged ?
5. Hoses crimped, collapsed, or clogged ?
6. Joker valve broken or jammed ?
7. Use bucket instead.

Stove broken.
1. Valves and switch set properly ?
2. Check fuel supply.
3. Check fuel solenoid.
4. Burner orifice gunked up ?
5. Burner thermostat/thermocouple not working ?
6. Use barbeque instead.
7. Eat cold food instead.

Dinghy's outboard motor won't start.
1. Fuel tank vent open ?
2. Throttle in wrong position ?
3. Shifter in wrong position ?
4. Kill switch in wrong position ?
5. Choke in wrong position ?
6. Out of fuel ?
7. Fuel line connection loose ?
8. Not primed, or flooded ?
9. Clogged fuel filter ?
10. Clogged carburetor ? Spray cleaner into air intake, crank once, spray again, let sit for a while.
11. Gunked-up spark plug ?
12. Getting spark ? Spray starter fluid into air intake, crank. If get a few cycles, you have spark.
13. Pull fuel line from carburetor, crank motor, see if gas flows evenly.
14. Drain carburetor bowl (may be best to remove carburetor from motor; don't want to lose drain screw).
15. No compression ? Broken or jammed reed valve ?

Engine oil leak.
1. Find it:
  - Before wiping engine or touching it, look carefully for oil trails.
  - It helps if engine is normally kept clean and well-painted.
  - Wipe down the engine and look for new oil.
  - Start and run engine while someone is looking at it with a flashlight.
  - Put a bedsheet or piece of cardboard under the engine.
  - Look in typical places: joints on oil cooler, all oil hose terminations, valve cover, head/block joint, crankshaft bearings (bad).
2. Fix it:
  - Replace bad gasket or hose.
  - Solder or patch (Marine-Tex or J B Weld) the bad joint.
  - Bypass bad part: can run engine without oil filter in loop, maybe can run at low RPM without oil cooler in loop.
  - Constantly add new oil to replace leaking oil, while running engine.
  - Clean the engine, bilge and engine compartment afterward.
3. Learn from it:
  - Maybe all gaskets or hoses are getting old ? Replace them.
  - Maybe similar joints are about to fail ? Replace part (e.g. oil cooler) that contains the joints.
  - Did you have enough spare oil and bilge pads ?
  - Did you have the right tools and supplies (Marine-Tex, solder, etc) ?
  - Was your engine clean and painted ?

Specific Situations

Before/after docking/mooring/anchoring.
Before:
1. Dinghy in with a lead-line or portable depthsounder, to see what the depth is ?
2. How are other boats anchored/docked and why, and which way are they pointing ?
3. Which ways are wind and current going ?
  What is the tidal state ?
4. What will happen if wind/current change to any direction after anchoring ?
5. What are tide and currents going to do in next 24 hours ?
6. Where is the swell coming from ? Want protection from it.
7. Which way will propeller-walk move you when reversing ?
8. Test reverse gear briefly.
9. What will you do if engine quits ?
  Raise sails, drop anchor, throw line to dock, deploy extra fenders, turn in what direction ?
10. Get boat-hook ready.
11. If docking:
  - Consider dropping some crew members off at some convenient place (fuel dock) and having them walk around to meet you at your slip.
  - Consider asking someone on dock for help (but instruct them carefully).
  - Get fenders (plus extras and fenderboard) and dock-lines ready.
  - Consider staying on deck and flipping mid-point of dock-line over dock cleat, instead of stepping off to tie one end of line to dock cleat.
    But should change to properly end-tied after docking is done.
  - Do a drive-by to confirm current and wind directions.
  - Might want to decline help from unknown people on dock.
12. If anchoring:
  - Do a circle while watching the depth-sounder.
  - What type is bottom ?
  - If bottom is sloping, increase scope.
  - Get anchor and rode ready.
    Make sure both ends of rode are secured.
  - Look for obstacles/boats ahead and behind.
  - Have sails ready in case anchor rode fouls propeller.
13. If mooring:
  - Have bow person point boat-hook at mooring ball at all times, so helmsman knows where to steer to.
  - Don't bring dirty mooring line onto deck.
    Loop one of your deck-lines through the eye on the mooring line.
14. Tell crew what you're going to do, and what they should/shouldn't do (including:
  no jumping gap to dock,
  no hands/feet between boat and pilings/docks,
  use cleats and friction instead of trying to muscle the boat directly).
After:
1. If moored, inspect mooring hardware for weakness, barnacles that could cut line, etc. Maybe even dive on it.
2. If anchored, set chain lock (anchor stopper) and deploy snubber.
  If weather is heavy, use long snubbers and use two snubbers (in case one breaks), with one slacked.
3. If docked, set spring lines.
4. If docked, adjust lines so no fenders are needed.
5. Secure lines.
6. Add chafe guards.
7. Add fenders.
8. Set exterior lights, radio speaker volume appropriately.
9. If anchored, take bearings and GPS position so you can detect dragging later.
10. If anchored, bring additional anchor onto deck (or at least locate it), ready for possible use.
11. If anchored, set a timer to remind you to check for anchor-dragging and chafe.

Before/after leaving dock/anchorage.
Before:
1. Record GPS coordinates of anchorage/marina, and whether it was good or bad place.
2. Disconnect from shore power and water.
3. Leaving any equipment on dock ?
  Dock lines, fenders, stairs, etc ?
4. If undocking, consider looping mid-point of dock-line around dock cleat, instead of tying one end of line to dock cleat (so crew can release line while standing on deck).
5. Movable items secured belowdecks and abovedecks ?
6. Everyone on board ?
7. PFD's on ?
8. Where's the dinghy attached ?
9. Swim ladder up ?
10. Propeller clear ?
11. No swimmers ?
12. Sails uncovered, sheets attached ?
13. Anchor ready to deploy if something goes wrong ?
14. Which ways are wind and current going ?
  What is the tidal state ?
15. Which way will propeller-walk move you when reversing ?
16. Test forward and reverse gears briefly.
17. What will you do if engine quits while docking/anchoring ?
  Raise sails, drop anchor, throw line to dock, deploy extra fenders, turn in what direction ?
18. Tell crew what you're going to do, and what they should do.
19. Look for obstacles/boats.
20. Look for traffic.
After:
1. Stow fenders and dock-lines.

Before/after dinghy trip.
Before:
1. Check outboard motor:
  - Check safety line tying outboard motor to dinghy.
  - Remove outboard motor cover and inspect starter rope, spark plug wires, fuel lines. Replace cover.
  - Check amount of fuel.
  - Agitate fuel to make sure oil and gasoline are mixed.
2. Check for safety equipment on board dinghy:
  anchor, handheld VHF, oars, oarlocks, bright light, long cable and lock, registration (laminated), bailer, whistle, fenders, PFD, first aid kit, water bottle.
3. If rough water, attach deadman lanyard from motor to your wrist.
After:
1. Close vent on fuel tank.
2. Rinse outboard motor with fresh water to minimize corrosion.

Before/after starting/stopping engine (Chris Caswell's "Prepare for Takeoff").
Before starting:
1. Sniff engine compartment with your nose.
2. Run bilge blower.
3. Check oil level and appearance.
  (If oil level is higher than expected, suspect water siphoned in via exhaust.)
4. Check coolant level and appearance.
5. Check transmission oil level.
6. Check engine belt tension.
7. Quick visual survey of engine.
8. Check battery electrolyte level.
9. Check fuel/water separator.
10. Check sea-water intake strainer.
11. Open water-intake seacock.
12. Open exhaust valve.
13. Check decompression lever (if applicable).
14. Release propeller shaft brake.
15. Turn off sensitive electronics that might be affected by voltage drop/surge.
16. Set battery switch to use starting battery (if applicable), or to select batteries to be charged.
17. Make sure throttle is at low setting.
18. Make sure transmission is in neutral.
19. Check engine kill-switch (if applicable).
20. Activate glow-plugs (if applicable).
After starting:
1. Check engine oil pressure.
2. Check water flow from exhaust.
3. Idle engine for 90 seconds or so.
4. Check fuel/water separator to see if lots of water is appearing.
5. Measure time to reach normal operating temperature.
6. Don't apply heavy loads until engine oil temperature rises close to normal.
7. Add more loads to get maximum use out of engine: set battery switch to charge all batteries, run watermaker, run refrigerator, run air conditioner.
After starting, at speed, and before stopping:
1. Log readings: engine idle speed, oil pressure, coolant temperature, oil temperature, time to reach normal operating temperature, battery voltage, transmission oil temperature and pressure, ambient air temperature and humidity, ambient water temperature.
2. In gear at speed, check amount of stuffing-box drip.
Before stopping:
1. Remove added loads from engine: turn off watermaker, refrigerator, air conditioner.
2. Idle until engine cools down (3 minutes or so).
After stopping:
1. Maybe close water-intake seacock.
2. Maybe close exhaust valve.
3. Maybe engage propeller shaft brake.
4. Check to see that stuffing-box drip has stopped.
5. Set battery switch to use only house batteries.

Before/after sleeping overnight on boat.
Before:
1. something ...
After:
1. something ...

Before/during/after sailing through heavy weather.
Before:
1. Any way to avoid it ?
2. Brief the crew.
3. File float plan / notify someone else about your plans.
4. Get as much sea-room (distance from land) as possible.
5. Charge batteries.
6. Get sleep and food.
7. Prepare food for later consumption.
8. Cap off any vents.
9. Secure wind-generator.
10. Secure dinghy.
11. Secure liferaft.
12. If anchor hanging at bow, tie it down.
13. If near land, bring spare anchors onto deck (or at least locate them), ready for possible use.
14. If not near land, stow anchors and chain belowdecks, to move weight out of bow.
15. Change to storm jib.
16. Reef the main sail, or:
17. Take down the main (to avoid accidental jibes), lash the boom down, raise a trysail.
18. If lightning possible: disconnect antennas, disconnect equipment, turn off circuit breakers, put ground strap over side ?
19. Secure any loose items in the cabin.
20. If knockdown possible, tie/tape lockers shut in cabin ?
21. Pump bilge.
22. Clean fuel filters.
23. Consider rigging grasping lines through the middle of the cabin and cockpit.
24. Rig jack-lines on deck.
25. Deploy UV resistant lifeline netting ?
26. Close and fasten all hatches, ports, cockpit locker lids, anchor chain locker lid, etc.
  Consider duct-taping some of them.
27. Close and fasten the companionway hatch.
28. If lightning possible: stay in cabin, don't touch metal (especially two pieces at same time).
29. Record position (on paper, in case electronics are blown out), note closest landmarks and hazards.
30. Don foul-weather gear, PFD and harness.
31. Turn on navigation lights ?
During:
- Basic choices:
  - Head for shelter.
  - Sail a course.
  - Lie ahull.
  - Run downwind.
  - Heave to.
- A sub-choice: sail, motor, motor-sail, or drift.
- Use spare anchor as makeshift sea anchor (from bow) or drogue (from stern) ?
After:
- If lightning struck nearby, compass deviation may have changed.
- Look in all stowage areas for anything that broke or shifted.

Before/after anchoring through heavy weather.
Before:
1. Brief the crew.
2. Analyze position in anchorage (other boats, obstacles, exposure).
  Any better position or other anchorage available ?
3. Make sure critical systems are working: engine (including clean prop), dinghy.
4. Charge batteries.
5. Get sleep.
6. Let out more scope on primary anchor ?
7. Add sentinel/kellet (weight) on primary anchor rode ?
8. Put out additional anchor ?
  But want to let boat swing to stay head-to-wind.
  All anchors should not fasten to same cleat.
  Consider multiple anchors in series (on same rode).
9. Consider how to release anchor if necessary during storm.
10. Bring spare anchors onto deck (or at least locate them), ready for possible use.
11. Add chafe guard to your lines at all rubbing points.
12. Clear movable items from deck.
13. If hurricane:
  - Remove all sails (including roller-furled) from abovedeck. Don't just put more wraps on the roller-furled jib. If you have never taken down the roller-furled sails, start early: it may take a while to figure out.
  - Remove all easily-removable things (BBQ, life-ring, MOB pole, etc) from railings and rigging. Consider removing RADAR dome, wind generator, antennas, solar panels.
  - Consider controlled sinking of the dinghy (without motor) instead of leaving it on deck.
  - Best to have no partially filled tanks. Empty them or fill them.
  - Consider taping closed all lockers (interior and exterior) and hull/deck vents, and plugging engine exhaust through-hull.
14. Lash/shackle the roller-furling drum to prevent unfurling if furling line parts.
15. Put extra tie-downs on furled sails and all sail/equipment covers.
16. Reduce windage.
17. Eliminate extra halyards. Attach the shackle end of each halyard to one line, then raise all halyards together to the top. This leaves you with just one line running down from the top of the mast and reduces windage.
18. Secure any lines that could thrash about.
19. Close all hatches, ports, etc.
20. Cap off any vents ?
21. Secure wind-generator.
22. Secure dinghy.
23. Secure liferaft.
24. If lightning possible: disconnect antennas, disconnect equipment, turn off circuit breakers, put ground strap over side ?
25. Rig jack-lines on deck ?
26. Pump bilge.
27. Latch/lock/lash all deck lockers closed.
28. Lash tiller/wheel to center position, in way that can be untied quickly, with bungee cord so big forces won't damage steering.
29. If hurricane, you probably shouldn't stay aboard.
  Take documents and money with you.
  Take photographs of boat before leaving, for insurance reasons.
30. Don't plan to spend the whole time belowdecks.
  You must watch out for your anchor dragging, other boats dragging, wind direction change, etc.
31. Put engine into ready-to-start shape.
32. If very heavy rain expected, have SCUBA mask at hand.
33. Don foul-weather gear, PFD and maybe harness.
34. Turn on navigation lights ?
35. If lightning possible: stay in cabin, don't touch metal (especially two pieces at same time).
After:
1. If there was lots of rolling, start engine right away to make sure water did not get into the cylinders.
2. If lightning struck nearby, compass deviation may have changed.
3. Look in all stowage areas for anything that broke or shifted.
4. If hurricane, inspect and test all equipment.

Before/after riding out heavy weather in a marina slip.
Before:
1. If hurricane,
  how much storm surge is expected,
  how tall are the pilings,
  and are the docks well-constructed (through-bolted) ?
2. Disconnect from shore power and water.
3. Do much of the "before anchoring through heavy weather" stuff above.
4. Tie extra lines over top of sail-covers and other canvas.
After:
1. Do much of the "after anchoring through heavy weather" stuff above.

Before/after entering/leaving a country.
Before entering:
1. Make sure you have proper documents.
2. Close and lock holding tank through-hull ?
3. Announce yourself over radio.
4. Follow official procedures (see Travel section of my Places page).
After entering:
1. Locate nearest clinic/hospital, so you know where to go if emergency.
2. Decide on hospital or evacuation in case of major medical problem.
Before leaving:
1. Get exit clearance papers.
After leaving:
1. Open holding tank through-hull ?

Before/after leaving boat moored or in slip for several days.
Before:
1. Close all through-hulls.
2. Close propane tank valve.
3. Make sure batteries are charged, so bilge pump will work.
4. If lightning a possibility, put ground strap over side ?
5. If docked, add spring lines and extra fenders.
6. Add chafe protection.
7. Secure halyards so they don't bang in the wind.
8. Ventilation: prop up mattresses/cushions, open lockers/drawers slightly, prop doors open, open a couple of floorboards.
9. Pump fresh water through head, so no seawater is sitting in hoses and head.
10. Put out bug-traps, or set off a bug-bomb.
After:
1. something ...

Before/after long trip away from boat.
Before:
1. Do everything in "Before leaving boat moored or in slip ..." above.
2. Top off fuel tank to minimize condensation.
3. Pickle the watermaker.
4. Hire someone to check the boat every day or two. Paying money will make them more conscientious about doing it.
After:
1. something ...

Before/after long trip on boat.
Before:
1. Plan:
  - Plan the route.
  - Have appropriate charts, including unplanned detours ?
  - Any limiting bridges/locks ? Schedules for openings ? VHF channel monitored ? Sound signals ?
  - Any limiting water depths ?
  - Any canals ? Speed limits ? No-wake zones ? Have enough fuel tankage ?
  - Get as much info as possible about likely destinations, marinas, etc.
  - Check weather forecast. Check tides and currents.
2. Make sure provisions will cover trip 3x as long as planned.
3. Clean propeller and bottom of hull.
4. Sample fuel from bottom of fuel tank.
  Pump it into a clear jar and let it settle.
5. Do some motoring in heavy seas; better to stir up the crud on the bottom of the tank and deal with it now rather than later.
6. If going offshore for a while:
  - Seal hatches and vent covers with duct tape.
  - Plug the anchor hawse pipe.
  - Lash dinghy down on deck ?
  - Have everything necessary for living within 10 feet of companionway/cockpit.
7. File float plan with someone.
After:
1. Clean up, repair, reprovision boat before sightseeing.

New crew/passengers joining/leaving.
Joining:
1. Give instructions on boat rules and equipment, including:
  - Where PFD's are and how to put them on.
  - Where fire extinguishers are and how to use them.
  - Where Marine VHF radio is and how to use it.
  - Where GPS is and how to read location from it.
  - Where drawer full of emergency equipment (including First Aid kit) is.
  - Overview of float plan so they know what to expect, and can report location in case of distress.
  - Explain dangers of head through-hull, propane, rigging.
  - Point out routine slipping/falling/stubbing dangers.
  - Explain basics of MOB response.
2. Make sure they have proper clothing, food, papers, etc.
3. Any medical problems, physical limitations, etc ?
Leaving:
1. Make sure they are not leaving anything behind.

Before/after refueling.
Before:
1. If fuel may be dirty and you want to filter it, get Baja filter out.
2. If fuel may be dirty and you want to filter it (slow), but dock is busy, pump fuel into jerry-cans, then go elsewhere and filter from cans to your tank.
3. If fuel pump hose has built-in filter, probably don't need to filter fuel yourself.
4. Tie boat securely.
5. Disembark everyone.
6. Calculate how much fuel you'll need, to avoid overfilling.
7. Shut off engine and electrical devices.
8. Make sure automatic electrical devices (refrigerator, bilge pump) can't turn on.
9. Bilge blower should be off.
10. Turn off electrical system.
11. No smoking or fire.
12. Close up boat.
13. Make sure proper type of fuel will be loaded.
14. Make sure correct deck filler will be used (avoid diesel-into-water).
15. Quick visual check of fuel tank vent to make sure it isn't plugged ?
16. Have some rags handy to clean up spills.
17. Locate nearest fire extinguisher.
18. Fill portable tanks on dock.
19. Hose down deck a little to make spills easier to clean ?
20. Add BioBor (if desired) before fuel.
21. Keep filler nozzle grounded against filler pipe.
22. Pump 2 gallons, stop to see if everything is okay, then do more.
After:
1. Wipe up any spill.
2. Open up boat.
3. Run blower for 5 minutes.
4. Pay for fuel.
5. Record amount of fuel in logbook.
6. Maybe hand-move boat away from pump, so someone else can get in.
7. Take opportunity to dispose of used motor oil, if fuel dock has a reclamation facility.
8. Sniff for fumes in bilge, cabin, lockers.
9. Turn on electrical system.
10. Start engine.
11. Load everyone on board.
12. Check the primary fuel filter (water separator) several times over the next 15 minutes of motoring.

Before/after pumping out holding tank.
Before:
1. Pump up some seawater to make sure pump has suction.
2. Get paper towel to cover deck cap while opening it.
3. Make sure vent is clear.
After:
1. Use hose to force water into holding tank vent on side of hull, to back-flush the vent line.
2. Maybe pump white vinegar through system and then:
3. Fill tank with water and pump again to rinse out solids at bottom of tank.
4. Maybe add bioactive tank treatment to tank.
5. Wash off deck and your hands.

Before/after loading fresh water.
Before:
1. Wash off deck to avoid hosing crud into water tank.
2. Fill a clear waterglass with the incoming water and check it for clarity, smell, taste.
3. Make sure correct deck filler will be used (avoid water-into-diesel).
4. If desired, add shot of bleach to tank before adding water.
After:
1. something ...

Towing or being towed.
- Establish good communications (VHF).
- Find out what is wrong. If it is something that is dangerous to the towing boat (aground, fire), be careful.
- Consider calling USCG or commercial towing service.
  Maybe you should just stand by until experts arrive.
  Maybe hold a line to keep the disabled boat stable and head to seas.
- Agree on where you're going and what to do when get there.
- Agree on whether this is a salvage, a for-fee tow, or a free tow.
  If there is any chance it is a salvage of your boat, protect yourself by: immediately creating a written record of the sea and weather conditions and state of the boat and people, repairing/stabilizing everything you can ahead of time, and declining any unnecessary help/equipment from the salvor.
- Caution: The towing craft becomes legally responsible for the towed craft.
- Caution: Some insurance policies specifically decline coverage if you are towing another vessel.
- Everyone on both boats puts on PFD's.
- Probably a good idea to have fenders and boat-hooks ready on both boats.
- If smooth water, consider rafting the two boats together, with the powered boat slightly aft, instead of towing. Or push the disabled boat with a dinghy, either from stern, or on hip (but as far astern as possible).
- Examine fittings on both boats for strength.
  Use bridle to share load across two fittings.
  Tie towline to bridle with a bowline knot, with two turns around the bridle.
  Want to use fittings as far forward as possible on towing boat, to keep maneuverability.
- Want tow line to be weaker than fittings.
  Best if it floats (polypropylene) and doesn't stretch (no nylon).
  [But some say stretching is good for shock-absorbing.]
  Towline can be passed between boats by heaving or by attaching a float and towing it past the disabled boat.
- Use chafing gear on tow line (both ends).
  Put small weight or chain in middle of line.
- Make sure towing boat will keep speed low.
- Make sure towing boat will make wide turns.
- Hoist danger or towing warning flags.
- Keep everyone out of path of towline in case it snaps.
- Keep everyone seated; motions of boats will be unusual.
- Someone on each boat should watch towline and other boat while towing, and be prepared to cut towline.
- Try to adjust length of towline so both boats hit waves at same point.
  May have to shorten when arriving at harbor or dock.
- Make "securite" radio call to nearby boats to notify them that a tow is occurring.
- Be prepared to warn off any nearby boats that don't realize a tow is occurring.
- Monitor conditions of weather, towing and towed boats, people, other traffic to watch out for any deterioration or hazards.
BoatSafe's "Towing for fun"
SailNet - Kathy Barron's "Tow or Salvage?"

Before/after SCUBA diving or snorkeling.
Before:
1. Make sure boat is well-anchored.
2. Hoist "diver down" flag.
3. If any current, trail a tag line behind the boat.
4. If snorkeling, make sure you have good sun-protection on.
5. Get well-hydrated (drink water) before diving.
6. Make sure there is a good way to get back onto the boat.
During:
1. If any current, divers should stay up-current from the boat.
After:
1. Bring in tag line.
2. Drop "diver down" flag.
3. Rinse SCUBA equipment with fresh water.
4. Dry SCUBA equipment out of direct sunlight.
5. Store SCUBA equipment in dark place. Don't crease the wetsuit.

Manually starting diesel engine.
- May help to heat the fuel by pouring hot water on fuel filter or injector pump or injector lines.
- May help to cut field current to alternator.

Close encounter with freighter.
- Take bearings repeatedly; if no change, collision course.
- Change course.
- Turn on RADAR.
- Start engine.
- Hoist RADAR reflector.
- Establish radio contact.
- If night, shine spotlight at your sails.
- If night, shine spotlight at freighter's bridge ?
- Sound horn.
- Go somewhere they can't: shallow water, behind obstruction, etc.

Reefing plan. (the numbers below are fictitious)

Wind Speed Mainsail Headsail

1-10 Full Genoa

11-17 Full Working

18-20 Full Reduced

21-25 1st Reef Reduced

25-32 2nd Reef Reduced

33-36 2nd Reef Storm

37+ Trysail Storm

Wind Speed	Mainsail	Headsail
1-10	Full	Genoa
11-17	Full	Working
18-20	Full	Reduced
21-25	1st Reef	Reduced
25-32	2nd Reef	Reduced
33-36	2nd Reef	Storm
37+	Trysail	Storm

Periodic Maintenance

Once a day.
- Apply sunscreen.
- Check bilges and through-hulls.
- Check electrical panel for popped breakers, proper settings, etc.
- Make log book entries.
- Inspect all stored fruits and vegetables for mold/decay.

Once a week.
- Air out and dry out bedding.
- Walk the deck, looking at all hardware, rigging, lines, covers, etc.
  Adjust chafe points on all lines.
- Check drains in cockpit and chain locker.
- Check transmission oil.
- Check belts.
- Check engine oil.
- Check engine coolant.
- Check frequently-used raw water intake strainers (engine and genset ?).
- Check frequently-used heat-exchanger zincs (engine and genset ?).
- Visual check of batteries.
- Operate and inspect all seacocks.
- Quick look into all lockers, compartments, cabinets, etc for anything wrong.
- Run all pumps, including emergency and manual ones.
  Clean strainers for all bilge pumps.
  Make sure all bilge pumps actually pump water.
  Make sure a couple of buckets are easily accessible.
- Clean and dry the bilge.
- Check for loose bolts on roller-furler, wind-vane, and steering linkage.
- If have roller-furling, and kept in one position over last week, roll sails in/out to keep the bearings from freezing up.
- If anchor windlass unused over last week, roll rode in/out to keep the windlass parts lubricated.
- Disinfectant scrub of toilet and head compartment.
- Check navigation lights and flashlights.
- Wash hull and topsides.
- Practice celestial navigation.

Once a month.
- Check/clean all water intake strainers.
- Check engine air filter visually (don't remove it).
- Check for oil under engine; clean oil off engine mounts with water and dishwashing liquid.
- Check drive train grease points.
- If pedestal/cable steering: lubricate cable sheave bearings and check cable tension.
- Test emergency steering.
- Wind-vane: wash with fresh water, then lubricate.
  Clean the oar.
  Inspect everything for cracks and loose bolts.
- Check propane system for leaks.
- Hose off and lightly oil winches.
- Oil anchor windlass.
- Lubricate bow roller.
- Lubricate zippers and snap fasteners on canvas with silicone grease.
- Lubricate gaskets/seals on hatches, ports and deck-fillers with Vaseline.
- Check/clean all anti-siphon valves and vented loops.
- Change watermaker's pre-filter.
- Check for corrosion and loose wiring in battery system.
- Equalize/condition (slow-charge at higher voltage) wet-cell batteries.
- Clean engine and touch up chipped/bare spots with high-temperature paint. (Don't get paint on wires.)
- Check bilge pump screens/strainers.
  Clean the pumps if they look messy.
- Dive over and clean off stuff growing on the hull and propeller.
- Pretend water is rising in the cabin.
  Practice quickly checking all through-hulls and head and sink.
- Imagine that the boat next to you has caught fire.
  How quickly can you start the engine, cast off and get away ?
- Practice (or at least review) First Aid techniques.
- Inspect MOB equipment and practice MOB maneuvers.
- Inspect and shake up fire extinguishers.
- Do a surprise fire drill (to the point where everyone has a fire extinguisher in their hands and pointed at the base of the "fire").
- Test fume alarms.
- Test EPIRB with built-in self-test.
- Bring contents of all lockers up onto deck, to dry out, air out, and let sun kill mildew.
- Unpack, inspect and re-bag all stowed sails.
- Uncoil, inspect and re-coil all stored lines.
- Clean refrigerator and vegetable/fruit storage areas with bleach.
- Clean insides of dorades and other vents with vinegar or Chlorox solution to kill mold.
- Clean insides of snorkels and mouthpieces with vinegar or baking soda to kill mold/mildew.

Every six months.
- Check fittings at top of mast.
- Check screws at top and bottom of roller-furler.
- Turn anchor chain end-for-end.
- Empty and scrub out chain locker.
- Wash anodized aluminum (mast, spars, etc) and rigging wires with fresh water.
- Test all hatches/ports/lockers for leaks by dumping water on them.
- Test deck filler caps for leaks by putting a little water on thread gaps and seeing if it drains.
- Inspect all sails.
- Lubricate mainsail track on mast.
- Lubricate sail hanks.
- Lubricate and work all turnbuckles.
- Check oil in anchor windlass.
- If hydraulic steering: check pressure, look for leaks at joints.
- Clean and wax gelcoat.
- Sample fuel from bottom of fuel tank.
  Pump it into a clear jar and let it settle.
- Check/tighten all zincs.
  If totally corroded or not corroding at all, there is a problem.
- Check hoses, hose clamps, and exhaust pipes (corrosion).
- Check refrigerant pressure and fluid level.
- Vacuum/wash refrigerator condenser coils/fins.
- Inspect engine sea water pump impeller.
- Check "weep hole" at bottom of engine water pump with engine running; if steady dripping, replace seal.
- Scrub out water tanks with bleach and water (if non-aluminum) or Aquabon (if aluminum), rinsing well.
- Shock treat fresh water system with bleach, rinsing well.
- Check oil in outboard motor gearbox.
- If have folding or feathering propeller, re-grease it.
- Lubricate rudder shaft.
- Clean corrosion off tools.
- Inspect storm equipment (sea anchor, drogue, storm sails) and practice deploying it.
- Test all contents of abandon-ship bag and liferaft.
- Inspect (and use) PFDs, harnesses, jacklines, MOB equipment.
  Orally inflate all inflatable PFDs and let them sit for 16 hours.

Once a year.
- Haul out and bottom-paint ?
  See my Boat Haulout page.
- Abovedecks:
  - Remove, clean and reseal the mast boot.
  - Pull and re-grease any stainless-steel fittings on aluminum masts or spars.
  - Wax anodized aluminum (mast, spars, etc).
  - Dye test for cracks in swaged fittings.
  - Dismantle, clean, lubricate winches.
  - Service/lubricate the compass.
  - Retune the rig.
  - Wash halyards and dock-lines.
- Service (disassemble and lubricate) all seacocks.
- If pedestal/cable steering, dismantle and check everything.
- Inspect the rudder bearings.
- SailNet - Will Keene's "Checking the Wheel Steering System" and SailNet - Tom Wood's "Steering System Spring Checkup"
- Drive train:
  - Repack stuffing box.
  - Check all struts and fasteners related to the propeller shaft.
  - Remove and inspect propeller and key. If has plastic bushing, replace bushing and key.
  - Repack bearings on engine idler pulleys.
  - Disassemble exhaust pipe and check for carbon.
  - Change transmission oil.
  - Clean heat exchanger.
  - Change engine coolant (use correct type for your engine).
  - Replace engine water-pump impeller (save old one as spare if not damaged).
  - Replace all belts (save old ones as spares if not damaged).
  - Clean engine air filter (wash with kerosene ?).
  - Clean engine intercooler.
  - Check engine mounts.
  - Check engine-propeller alignment.
- Outboard motor:
  - Remove propeller, inspect, check shear pin, grease, reassemble.
  - Change oil in gearbox.
  - Replace water-pump impeller, seals and gasket.
  - Replace disposable inline fuel filter.
  - Clean filter screen on integral fuel tank.
  - Inspect starter rope.
- Rebuild the head (even if it is working fine).
  Or at least replace the joker valve.
- Replace holding tank vent filter.
- Flush refrigerator condenser with muriatic acid.
- Clean gaskets on all ports, lubricate with silicone spray.
- Have EPIRB tested by USCG or manufacturer.
- Have liferaft tested and repacked.
- Replace triggers in automatically inflatable PFDs ?
- Inspect all tanks for leaks/corrosion and proper mounting.
- Sand and repaint propane tanks.
- Refit aluminum tape on propane connections.
- Check bonding wires for continuity and low resistance.
- Unplug all electrical connectors and check for corrosion.
- Varnish cabin sole.
- Review stowage plan, discard unused stuff, and look for ways to increase stowage space/utility.
- Make sure all licenses/documentation (boat, dinghy, fishing, etc) are up to date.
  You can renew USCG Documentation by filing form CG-1280 without waiting for renewal notice to arrive.
- Review boat insurance to see if terms and valuation remain appropriate.
- Check with manufacturers to see if there are any software updates to GPS, chartplotter, SONAR, auto-pilot, RADAR, radios, EPIRB, computer, inverter, charger, navigation software.
- Replace expired medicines.
- Have a skin-cancer examination.
- First Aid refresher class ?
- SCUBA skills refresher class ?
- Have SCUBA regulator serviced.
- Have camera and lenses professionally cleaned to remove mold/mildew.

Every two to three years.
- Replace engine thermostat (save old one as spare if not damaged).
- Replace all engine hoses and hose clamps (save old ones as spares if not damaged).
- Steam-clean the fuel tank.
- Clean the water tank.
- Regalvanize anchors and chain.
- Pull mast and inspect mast base, mast step and all wiring in mast.
- Pull a couple of keel bolts and inspect them.
- Replace centerboard pennant (cable).
- Repack the rudder bearings.
- Replace jack-lines (especially if nylon webbing; UV damage weakens them).
- Replace valve on inflatable dinghy ?
- Have SCUBA tank hydrostatically tested.
- Expect to have to replace batteries.

Every five to seven years.
- Remove and rebed all through-hulls.
- Remove and rebed all deck hardware.
- Replace standing rigging.
- Replace lifelines.
- Replace anchor chain.
- Replace steering cables.
- Replace exhaust manifold and riser.
- Replace rubber engine mounts.
- Replace smoke/fume alarms even if still working.
- Have electrical system survey done.
- Expect to have to replace all sails.
- Expect to have to rebuild diesel engine.

Every 8 hours of engine running.
- Add shot of grease to stuffing box (if greased).

Every 20 hours of engine running.
- Test engine coolant with coolant tester.
- Test batteries with hydrometer.
- Check engine hoses, clamps, wires, tubes, belts, mounts, drip pan, vents, gaskets.

Every 50 hours of engine running.
- Have engine oil analyzed ?
- Change oil and filter. (Use for-diesel-engines oil only.)
- Inspect zincs in heat exchanger and exhaust riser.
- Remove anti-siphon valve in exhaust system, wash it with warm soapy water, and inspect it.
- Check engine air intake system for dust, rust, water, salt, particles.
- Check for loose bolts on engine (due to vibration).
- Inspect/clean outboard motor's spark plugs.

Every 100 to 150 hours of engine running.
- Change primary fuel filter (water separator).
- Adjust valve clearance.
- Retorque cylinder head bolts.
- Tighten fuel lines.
- Decarbonize outboard motor with fuel additive ?
  (Clean spark plug afterward.)

Every 300 hours of engine running.
- Replace air filter (maybe at 200 hours, or every 3rd oil change).
- Change secondary fuel filter.
- Change transmission oil.
- Top up autopilot oil (for an in-decks pilot).
- Replace crankcase ventilation air filter.
- Replace outboard motor's spark plugs.

Reminding

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